Pomoca Race Pro 2.0 Per CM
Of course, the fastest skins in town are available on the roll. Get the new Super Glidey race formula from Pomoca in exactly the length you want. Then attach your favorite tip system, round the tails, and go race. Or train, tour, explore, whatever. The Race Pro 2.0 is the cheapest way to maximize the glide of your skimo racing skis. Available in 59mm, 62mm, 65mm, and 85mm widths.
ORDERING NOTE: These skins are sold by the centimeter (cm), meaning you should type in the Qty field the length (in cm) of skin you want for one ski “times two” for a PAIR. Unless you are making a backup skin, then just times it by one.
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Questions & Reviews
9/22/2023
would the 85mm width work on a pair of Atomic Backland UL 85's or too spot on to trim to get that ~2mm offset?
9/23/2023
Hi Jackson, Short answer: it would work! You would have full coverage underfoot, but it would taper quickly as you move towards the tips and tails. This would be a race cut, and would offer excellent glide but would demand good skinning technique and balance to sidehill on firmer snow.
9/23/2023
Hi jackson, in regards to trimming 2mm to expose the edge, yes that would be ideal. Most trimming tools can't really handle that small of a cut so just offset the skin manually by 2mm and hit it with a razor blade.
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Review for those that aren't sure if race style skins are for them:
I've been race skin "curious" for many years, but never tried them. Then this season I bought a pair of 1kg class skis and put superlight bindings on them. I went "Full Rando" ;) and bought race skins.
I had never used a race style tips, or used a skin without a tail fix.
I purchased 85mm Race Pro 2.0, trimmed width a little to fit BD Cirque 84 skis. I cut the length short of the tail, maybe 4/5 ski length.
First impressions: Holy cow these things glide. It's much better than standard 70/30 mix mohair skins like Pomoca Climb Pro S-Glide, and not even comparable to full nylon skins from G3. The grip is less, but not that bad. The grip is more than enough if you're running a race-like binding that doesn't have a high heel riser anyway. If you're in a non-icy, but smooth skin track there's more than enough grip. Also, they are light and fold up really nice in a tiny backpack (never go Full Rando!)
After a few uses: Using these to actually break trail in powder is not fun. Not enough grip and the lack of a tail fix means they come off, especially when stuffing tails during kick turns. It's really frustrating if your tour has any short sections of snow plowing. Snow plowing a 50ft steep descent to cross a river ripped both my skins off my skis.
Also, I pulled the tip loops right off trying to rip skins. Replaced them with a home-brew setup with much thicker shock cord and burlier end bits. Still don't like it.
Impression after about 12 uses, including one short skimo race: These skins are very fragile. They are more worn down than my normal skins have ever been, even after *hundreds* of days. It's a bummer, but I guess they're called "race" skins, not bushwhack skins...and I did some of that. I have realized that after 20+ years of ripping my skins from the tails I just cannot be bothered to learn how to rip from the tip....I'm done with race tip fixes. I decided to make a new set of race skins, long enough to put a tail fix on them, and use a standard tip fix.....blasphemy to rando-nerds I'm sure.
Comparison:
- My 4/5 race skins with race tip fix and no tail fix = 291 grams, glides like a dream, and rolls up like a cinnamon bun....but does not fill my needs.
- My new set of full length race skins with a G3 minimal tip loop and standard G3 tail hook = 442 grams and glides almost as good, but grip is not improved. Will still be fragile, might be a silly idea.
- A set of Climb Pro S-glide skins I cut for the same skis = 429 grams (lighter than the race skins due to tip&tail hardware). They don't glide as well, but grip allows steep climbing in icy tracks, or breaking trail in old facets and wet glop. They roll up a bit bigger because they're stiffer. Also, the thicker skin is noticeable under the ski. Switching to a Free Pro would fix this.
Conclusion: Race Pro 2.0 skins are really awesome, but probably best for racers and resort uphillers. I'm going to keep using my front and rear fixed race skins for long traverses and skiing rolling hiking trails in Chugach, but they won't be added to any of my powder touring kits. I wish that race skin glide was available without all the other trade offs.
I've been race skin "curious" for many years, but never tried them. Then this season I bought a pair of 1kg class skis and put superlight bindings on them. I went "Full Rando" ;) and bought race skins.
I had never used a race style tips, or used a skin without a tail fix.
I purchased 85mm Race Pro 2.0, trimmed width a little to fit BD Cirque 84 skis. I cut the length short of the tail, maybe 4/5 ski length.
First impressions: Holy cow these things glide. It's much better than standard 70/30 mix mohair skins like Pomoca Climb Pro S-Glide, and not even comparable to full nylon skins from G3. The grip is less, but not that bad. The grip is more than enough if you're running a race-like binding that doesn't have a high heel riser anyway. If you're in a non-icy, but smooth skin track there's more than enough grip. Also, they are light and fold up really nice in a tiny backpack (never go Full Rando!)
After a few uses: Using these to actually break trail in powder is not fun. Not enough grip and the lack of a tail fix means they come off, especially when stuffing tails during kick turns. It's really frustrating if your tour has any short sections of snow plowing. Snow plowing a 50ft steep descent to cross a river ripped both my skins off my skis.
Also, I pulled the tip loops right off trying to rip skins. Replaced them with a home-brew setup with much thicker shock cord and burlier end bits. Still don't like it.
Impression after about 12 uses, including one short skimo race: These skins are very fragile. They are more worn down than my normal skins have ever been, even after *hundreds* of days. It's a bummer, but I guess they're called "race" skins, not bushwhack skins...and I did some of that. I have realized that after 20+ years of ripping my skins from the tails I just cannot be bothered to learn how to rip from the tip....I'm done with race tip fixes. I decided to make a new set of race skins, long enough to put a tail fix on them, and use a standard tip fix.....blasphemy to rando-nerds I'm sure.
Comparison:
- My 4/5 race skins with race tip fix and no tail fix = 291 grams, glides like a dream, and rolls up like a cinnamon bun....but does not fill my needs.
- My new set of full length race skins with a G3 minimal tip loop and standard G3 tail hook = 442 grams and glides almost as good, but grip is not improved. Will still be fragile, might be a silly idea.
- A set of Climb Pro S-glide skins I cut for the same skis = 429 grams (lighter than the race skins due to tip&tail hardware). They don't glide as well, but grip allows steep climbing in icy tracks, or breaking trail in old facets and wet glop. They roll up a bit bigger because they're stiffer. Also, the thicker skin is noticeable under the ski. Switching to a Free Pro would fix this.
Conclusion: Race Pro 2.0 skins are really awesome, but probably best for racers and resort uphillers. I'm going to keep using my front and rear fixed race skins for long traverses and skiing rolling hiking trails in Chugach, but they won't be added to any of my powder touring kits. I wish that race skin glide was available without all the other trade offs.
4/23/2022
comparison of my 3 sets of skins for BD Cirque 84
4/23/2022
Thanks for the feedback, Peter! A few tips for using race skins:
- Add a little extra glue to the tails. Gold Label on the last few inches does wonders for stickage. Also ensure the tails are rounded so there are no sharp corners for peeling to start from.
- Don't tip-rip by pulling on just the bungee, but rather use the bungee to remove the tip and grab a chunk of skin material.
- Avoid downhiling on re-frozen spring snow, that will wear the edges fairly quickly.
For the perfect blend of speed, traction, packability, and spring durability: going with a non-race mohair or mix material that is straight cut 10mm wider than the underfoot ski width is about perfect IMO. I'm ambivalent on tail clips, but using simple metal tail clasps and ripping from the tip is an extremely reliable and efficient system.
- Add a little extra glue to the tails. Gold Label on the last few inches does wonders for stickage. Also ensure the tails are rounded so there are no sharp corners for peeling to start from.
- Don't tip-rip by pulling on just the bungee, but rather use the bungee to remove the tip and grab a chunk of skin material.
- Avoid downhiling on re-frozen spring snow, that will wear the edges fairly quickly.
For the perfect blend of speed, traction, packability, and spring durability: going with a non-race mohair or mix material that is straight cut 10mm wider than the underfoot ski width is about perfect IMO. I'm ambivalent on tail clips, but using simple metal tail clasps and ripping from the tip is an extremely reliable and efficient system.
4/24/2022
Thanks jbo.
I just re-read my review and realize the words are more negative than I feel.
4 Stars is the important thing.
Race skins are awesome, and they're going to remain in my quiver. It's been a season of learning what their limits are.
I just re-read my review and realize the words are more negative than I feel.
4 Stars is the important thing.
Race skins are awesome, and they're going to remain in my quiver. It's been a season of learning what their limits are.
4/16/2023
Sorry but can you please explain “ straight cut 10mm wider than the underfoot ski width”? I am picturing a skin that is cut in a straight line (ie no shape to it) but if that’s the case how could it be wider than the narrowest part of the ski (ie underfoot)? I am guessing I am misunderstanding the lingo or maybe you meant to say “narrower” instead of “wider”?
4/16/2023
You’re right Matthew, I’m pretty sure @JBO meant narrower, not wider.
I’m a big fan of straight(er) cut skins too, though I don’t go that narrow anymore.
10-15mm narrower than the tail width is usually how I buy my skins. They get an hourglass cut only under the middle ~1/3 of the length and they’re straight the rest of the way
I’m a big fan of straight(er) cut skins too, though I don’t go that narrow anymore.
10-15mm narrower than the tail width is usually how I buy my skins. They get an hourglass cut only under the middle ~1/3 of the length and they’re straight the rest of the way
4/16/2023
Hi Matthew & Peter, I did mean wider. Yes, you need to trim to the side cut underfoot, so it ends up being what Peter describes in the middle 1/3 or so.
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Great performance! High glide, classic Pomoca glue--reliably sticky if kept mostly dry, and easy to rip off the skis. Made a long skinny pair of skins for my Madshus backcountry touring nordic skis. Works great for low angle climbing but glides beautifully for maximum efficiency!
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2/11/2021
Just want to check myself here: I've got some 90mm-waist skis (BMT 90s). With a 2.5mm edge on each side, that would get the skins down to 85mm, correct? Would love me some straight, glide-y skins for a great price! Any chance you could do a quick check on your BMT 90s in stock to confirm?
2/12/2021
Thanks for your question, dub. I went and checked and seems the edges are slightly less than 2mm so there's also a smidge of base showing on either side of the skin. I think this may work for your intended use.
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I do all of my training on these and they've held up great all season. Like any other skin, they stick less when they get cold and icy but even when they're "bad" they still stay on just fine. Also keep in mind I usually train on a tiny hill with 100' of vert, so I transition a LOT and the glue is all still fine.
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Best skin that exists...period. Great grip, great glide, easy rip, and long lasting glue. It's not super durable, but that's not the point of a race skin. Works well in all temps and surfaces.
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1/23/2021
Hi!
I have OAC 147 cm skis (110 width), and I find the integrated skin is not enough to climb sometimes. Do you think I could cut out 2 pieces for each of my skis to put before and after the integrated skin ?
I saw you have wider skins in rolls also, what is the difference ? As it is not written 2.0 ?
Thank you!
I have OAC 147 cm skis (110 width), and I find the integrated skin is not enough to climb sometimes. Do you think I could cut out 2 pieces for each of my skis to put before and after the integrated skin ?
I saw you have wider skins in rolls also, what is the difference ? As it is not written 2.0 ?
Thank you!
1/23/2021
Ariane-We do have other race skins that do not have the 2.0 glide treatment in wider widths. Not sure exactly what you want to do with your skis. Write to us at help@skimo.co and we can dive in deeper on getting you the right skin.
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12/30/2020
I am looking to replace skins on my xc skis - do these come with an adhesive backing or do I need to glue them on? if glue, please provide a recommendation - my first guess would be some sort of epoxy product. thanks.
12/30/2020
Thanks for your question, Josh! These skins do have an adhesive backing that adheres to skis bases quite well. To keep them adhered to your xc ski, you may want to use a "hot glue" and lay it on top of the adhesive backing on the skin itself. Please let us know if you have any further questions!
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9/2/2020
So I'm looking into buying a pair of snowfeet (basically snow skates or really tiny skis) for when I explore the backcountry come winter.. I've heard x-country skiers use skins to go up hill, would this product work on a much smaller ski and where don't find out more about the tip attachment and really attaching the skins in general...it would be nice if I could leave the skin on to go up and down as I explore. The whole idea of taking it on and off seems a bit much when potentially standing on 12 feet of powder... I look forward to some direction on this matter. Thank you.
9/3/2020
Hey Lee, thanks for reaching out, we love hearing about creative ways to explore the backcountry! While I haven't used snowfeet myself, it appears the strap style binding has no way to pivot like a cross country or alpine touring binding is able to. For touring bindings, you are able to lift up your heel while remaining attached at the toe, and this allows for a more natural walking gait. With these snowfeet, you would need to walk with your entire foot staying on the ground, and that "shuffling" gait could be uncomfortable. Skins work best when they stay in contact with the snow, so picking them up with each step would likely lose a lot of efficiency.
This specific product listing is for skin material on a roll, which you could combine with any skin tip/tail attachments you want to create a custom setup. You don't have to remove skins for the descent(depending on slope angle, snow quality, and skin material), but most folks choose to because it slows them down too much and you can wear out skins faster. If you do choose to remove skins, you can do it a couple different ways: Skis on or skis off. Skis staying on can keep you floating on top of the powder easier, but requires flexibility and skill to rip skins from the tip/tail(depending on attachment hardware) while the ski is still attached to your foot. Taking skis off is simpler to learn and more comfortable for many, and you could take one off at a time to still maintain some flotation.
If you do consider this option, please let us know how it goes so we can inform other curious customers!
This specific product listing is for skin material on a roll, which you could combine with any skin tip/tail attachments you want to create a custom setup. You don't have to remove skins for the descent(depending on slope angle, snow quality, and skin material), but most folks choose to because it slows them down too much and you can wear out skins faster. If you do choose to remove skins, you can do it a couple different ways: Skis on or skis off. Skis staying on can keep you floating on top of the powder easier, but requires flexibility and skill to rip skins from the tip/tail(depending on attachment hardware) while the ski is still attached to your foot. Taking skis off is simpler to learn and more comfortable for many, and you could take one off at a time to still maintain some flotation.
If you do consider this option, please let us know how it goes so we can inform other curious customers!
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I bought a few meters of these skins to create new race skins for my PDG skis. The glue has been incredible and they rip much more easily than my dynafit precut skins. I ordered the 62mm and paired them with the Kohla race tips - which has been working great!
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3/17/2019
What does the “2.0” designation mean?
3/17/2019
Hi Josh, it just means it's the second generation of the Race Pro formula. Pomoca is always experimenting with nap and glide treatment to give athletes an edge!
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3/13/2019
Will you materials work on cross country skis?
3/13/2019
Hi Dave, there is no reason they wouldn't! We also have some CC specific kits here.
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4/24/2018
I tried ordering 310 cm (155 cm per ski), but there's only 240 cm in stock. Are you planning on getting any more in the next couple days?
4/25/2018
Hey Scott! Not planning on getting more in the next couple of days, though there are definitely kits available with more than enough length. Find them here.
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2/25/2018
Pomoca shows on their website that you can get the race pro 2.0 roll in 85, 100, and 120mm widths. Any possibility of getting the wider widths? Thanks.
2/25/2018
Hi Kyle, best we can do is the race roll found here, which is available in 100 and 120. We also have wider Colltex and Trab race material.
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I built a pair of skinny "kicker" and skins with this plush to use on long flat approaches. For this purpose they don't disappoint. I've only used them on 85 waist skis to date but plan on using them in wider skis too (we'll see how that goes.) Tons of glide and remarkable grip, as long as I keep the full base in contact with the snow and don't try to use my edges. I was surprised to find that I could climb straight up shallow slopes and not lose grip.
On a warm spring day I brought these for the approach but ended up using them more than intended when my primary skins wetted through and lost all adherence to my bases. They did a commendable job. I'd definitely use them again.
On a warm spring day I brought these for the approach but ended up using them more than intended when my primary skins wetted through and lost all adherence to my bases. They did a commendable job. I'd definitely use them again.
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