With the rope being only 6mm, what does one use for prussiks? Paracord is too wimpy, but seems to me like the only thing with a smaller diameter, but I'm not trusting p-cord in my system! Same goes for belay devices - even the BD ATC Alpine Guide and Edelrid Micro Jul only goes down to 6.9mm.
Don't see a way to do any crevasse rescue work without some prussiks and belay devices!
Victorious summit photos atop a hard-won ski mountaineering objective nearly always fail to capture the nuanced steps of progression which led to that moment. Crevasses, steep snow fields, and icy ridges all had to be navigated to reach that summit, and without reliable and capable tools like the Mammut Glacier Cord Dry 6.0, travel through that terrain can be harrowing (at best). With a Dyneema core, a dry coating, and an incredibly lightweight construction, the Glacier Cord won't freeze up or weigh you down, and will last for years to come. A compact storage sack doubles as a throw bag for precise rope tossing, and allows for compact rope storage inside your pack. Glacier travel, rappelling, or crevasse rescue-- it doesn't matter, the Mammut Glacier Cord Dry 6.0 is the dream tool for those hard fought alpine objectives.
- Aramid sheath and Mammut Dry coating combine to give this rope an extra grippy texture, meant to improve handling and ease of use.
- Mammut Dry treatment eliminates water absorption, keeping this rope maneuverable and safe in even the harshest of conditions.
- This cord is static, and elongates less than 2% when weighted, making it perfect for crevasse rescue.
- Storage sack keeps your pack neat and doubles as a throw bag for precise rope tossing.
- Bright yellow coloring makes the Glacier Cord visible in snow and dim pack interiors.
- Compatible with TIBLOC and MICRO TRAXION.
- CE EN 564 certified. Not for lead climbing.
| Specifications | |
| Grams per Meter | 25g/m |
|
Weight |
822g [30m] 1640g [60m] |
| Length | 30m or 60m |
|
|
6.0mm |
| Strength | 14 kN |
| Specs Verified | Yes |
| Design | |
| Rope Style | Glacier |
| UIAA Fall Rating | N/A |
| Skimo Co Says | |
| Usage | Glacier travel, crevasse rescue, rappelling |
| Notes | Dry treatment gives maximum safety in all conditions |
| Bottom Line | Ultra-lightweight cord for glacier and snow travel |
| Compare to other Ropes | |
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Questions & Reviews
4/10/2021
4/10/2021
Hey Nels,
Thanks for reaching out! A good way to learn crevasse rescue is to hire a certified guide. They'll be able to do a deep dive into what is the industry standard for crevasse rescue.
Thanks for reaching out! A good way to learn crevasse rescue is to hire a certified guide. They'll be able to do a deep dive into what is the industry standard for crevasse rescue.
5/12/2021
Nels, you are right, 6mm is on the light side, diameter-wise, yet still strong enough with the Dyneema core. I suggest 4 mm polyester cord for using prussiks on the 6mm rope - available from Sterling and other brands. Para cord is not to be trusted with your body weight!
7/20/2021
I have rapped over 200 pitches on doubled 6mm accessory cord through BD ATC Guide backed up by the same 4mm accessory cord auto block/french prusik. Amazingly, the 4mm looks almost pristine. Having said this, neither cord inspires me as being comfortable overkill. In 2018 I picked up this 60 meter x 6mm Mammut rap cord in a kit that included throw bag, locking oval biner and Mammut Nano 8 thin cord belay device (sadly discontinued). I use it "off label" as a single strand rap cord with the Nano 8 and 4mm accessory cord auto block (4mm and 5mm access cord also work as a prussik for ascending the Mammut 6mm rap cord as does the garda knot). If you double the cord as Mammut instructs, you will have a lot more friction than my application. For insurance,I am also upgrading my autoblock to the Beal Prusik Cord - 5.5mm, 22 KN nylon/aramid, $15 REI.
Since the Nano 8 is no longer available, I suggest trying the Alpine ATC, run it back through your HMS biner as other poster suggested and then to auto block back up. Auto block is essential. In my application, I can barely hold myself stopped with my hands on the brake line and no autoblock. https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/prusik-types/
Since the Nano 8 is no longer available, I suggest trying the Alpine ATC, run it back through your HMS biner as other poster suggested and then to auto block back up. Auto block is essential. In my application, I can barely hold myself stopped with my hands on the brake line and no autoblock. https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/prusik-types/
7/20/2021
I suppose this 6mm Mammut cord is being specifically marketed ski mountaineering applications, so I hesitate to say more on this, as canyoneering is mostly my background. However, just to be clear to all audiences, no experienced canyoneer would ever recommend rappelling on cord this small, even double-strand. 8mm is the smallest we use, and many think even that is too small. Its not just a matter of tensile strength, but also cut and abrasion resistance, as the rope often passes over sharp edges as you rappel. Thin rope cuts through quicker than think rope. So, I would say this cord has a limited and specific application, not for general rappelling in any terrain. In my opinion, even for ski mountaineering, I would want 8mm rope, not 6mm cord.
7/22/2021
Calvin - For nylon cord, your advice is solid. Standard nylon accessory cord has a nylon sheath susceptible to cutting and an 8.7 KN breaking strength. The Mammut 6mm cord being discussed has an aramid sheath (kevlar, used in the manufacture of bullet proof vests, is an aramid fiber) which is highly resistant to abrasion and cutting - vastly beyond that of nylon contributing to it's 14 KN strength. This cord has much greater resistance to cutting than your 8mm nylon rap line. This specialty construction and material explains why 200 feet retails at $460.
7/22/2021
Ok. Yeah, I wasn't comparing to nylon, that is too stretchy for canyoneering - we mostly use polyester. You must be a climber. I'm a materials engineer and agree that Kevlar is tough and resistant to cutting - I'm just saying, it doesn't take much of a cut to compromise a cord this thin, only 6mm. Even Technora sheath canyoneering rope is a minimum of 8mm. As you mentioned yourself, most rappelling devices aren't designed for a rope this small. I'm just trying to caution folks to not use this mountaineering cord for canyoneering applications.
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