I plan to mount a pair of 2015 TLT Speed Radicals to Solomon MTN Explorer 95 skis. My boots are Scarpa TX Pro. I believe the B & D Classic 6.4 mm shims are the ones I should use with longer 19 mm screws, but want to confirm before ordering. I also want to purchase a pair of crampons. Are the Dynafit 100 mm the best to use?
Thanks, Jim
B&D Shims
Getting the right ramp angle on your bindings can make the difference between skiing on-point or in the backseat with tired quads. B&D makes shims for almost every occasion. Choose a shim based on your binding and desired pin height delta, which can take some experimentation. Shorter boot sole lengths are more affected by delta because they end up with a higher ramp angle, thus look for thicker shims. Shorter skis also may benefit from thicker shims. For long skis and long feet, go thin to win. Some folks who shim their toes also increase the height of their heel risers to compensate. Do this with B&D Nubbins.
►ORDERING NOTE: All shims are sold in PAIRS, while the screws are priced INDIVIDUALLY.
Classic Shims x2 - Drilled to match both Classic and Radical hole patterns.
Classic Extensions x2 - Also known as “tips & tails,” these allow the Classic shims to be used with Comfort, Vertical ST, and Vertical FT bindings. They interlock with the Classic shims.
Radical 1.0 Shims x2 - Pair well with Dynafit Radical ST and FT bindings.
Rotation Shims x2 - Compatible with both Rotation and Radical ST 2.0 bindings.
Radical FT 2.0 Shims x2 - Yep, these work with Radical FT 2.0 bindings.
G3 ION Shims x2 - Compatible with G3 ION bindings. RIP.
Xenic Shims x2 - Made for the Fritschi Xenic bindings. Your quads will say thank you.
Vipec / Tecton Shims x2 - Compatible with Vipec and Tecton bindings. Please note some shims will come undrilled.
Kingpin Shims x2 - Works for Marker Kingpin, Alpinist, and Cruise bindings.
ATK Raider Shims x2 - Works with ATK Raider 10/12 and Freeraider 14/16 bindings. Not compatible with C-Raider or newer Raider Evo models.
ATK C-Raider Shims x2 - Purpose made for C-Raider bindings and their longer striker plate.
ATK Raider Universal Shims x2 - Shims that pair with older Raider models. Please note these are not compatible with Raider Evo or C-Raider models.
ATK Modern x2 - Shims that pair with Raider Evo, RT Evo (>24/25), Haute Route Plus (>24/25), Crest (>24/25), and Raider SL models.
Backland / MTN Shims x2 - Perfect for your Atomic Backland, Salomon MTN bindings, or Armada Tracer Tour bindings.
18mm Pozi Screw - If you add some shims, you're going to need longer screws. These are alpine screws with a large head that works well with Plum bindings.
19mm Torx Screw - These are good for shimming lots of toes with 6.4mm shims. Small Torx head works especially well with Dynafit bindings. Find the screws here.
21.5mm Pozi Screw - Another alpine-style, large-head screw that works best with G3 ION and Plum models.
23.5mm Pozi Screw - Perfect for 4.7mm shims under Radical 1.0 & Vertical toes that already have baseplates. Medium size head.
28mm Pozi Screw - These are for raising the Radical ST or Vertical ST toes past 4.7mm, amongst other uses. Watch your depth, you may need to grind 'em down.
Metric conversions: 3.2mm = 1/8". 4.7mm = 3/16". 6.4mm = 1/4"
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Questions & Reviews
1/18/2016
1/18/2016
Hi Jim, yes you need the Classic version for those, and 6.4mm is a good height in my opinion. 19mm screws work perfectly with those. Aside from color, the 100mm crampons would be ideal for the MTN Explore.
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11/6/2015
Does the B&D toe shim work on the Radical FT? if so what do you do with the carbon stringer that runs between toe and heel pieces?
11/6/2015
Hi ChuckM, the Radical shims will fit under the FT toe & baseplate, but not with the connector plate in place. You toss that in the bin.
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10/22/2015
HI,
i wonder if the 28mm screws are long enough for combining the 6,4 mm and the 4,7 mm Radical Shims to reduce the ramp angle on my Radical FTs as close to 0 as possible.
i wonder if the 28mm screws are long enough for combining the 6,4 mm and the 4,7 mm Radical Shims to reduce the ramp angle on my Radical FTs as close to 0 as possible.
10/22/2015
Hi Jasper, you'd probably be OK with a 6.4 and a 3.2, but not enough bite with over 11mm of stack. Also, crampons might not work for you at those heights!
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2/5/2015
I know you have probably answered this in a previous post but I just wanted to clarify. I want to raise the toe pieces on my speed radicals and was a little confused from a previous answer, so my question was can you tell me which item I need and also do you have the proper screws available to compensate for the added thickness. Thank You.
2/5/2015
Hi Chris, you want the Classic shims (thickness is a preference, 6.4 is most popular) and screws to match your chosen thickness (19mm works without modification for the 6.4s).
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1/24/2015
I'm trying to shim up a pair of dynafit tlt speed classics. I'd like to get as close to flat ramp angle as possible. Which shim and screw combo do you recommend?
1/25/2015
Hi Travis, flat would be 6.4mm + 3.2mm Classic shims, mounted with 28mm screws. I haven't tried that particular combo, but it would avoid the need to shorten the screws for the 6.4 shim by itself (25mm ski screws are hard to come by).
Answer this question:
12/23/2014
Adam Holmes
(used product a few times)
After reading articles about ramp angle/toe-heel delta, I got some 6.4mm shims to raise the toepiece on a Dynafit Vertical ST binding. Took the binding from a +16mm to about +9.6mm for ramp delta. I'm pretty convinced this has made my downhill skiing much less tiring. Less tired = more vertical! Who would have thought this small change could affect my fun factor. Definitely worth the time, money, and slight weight penalty.
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12/7/2014
I ordered the B&D 4.7 classic shims for a pair of verticals but forgot the extensions. If I order the extensions and choose Qty:1, will that be a pair or 4 pieces total? Just want to make sure...
Thanks
Thanks
12/7/2014
Hey Mike, all the B&D shims are sold in pairs, so Qty:1 = 1 pair = 2 pieces.
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12/2/2014
So I was going to buy the 6.4 mm for my speed radical dynafit toepieces. This will work correct?
Second question: What length screws should I get? Do the toepieces screw into the shims and then different screws into the ski?
Second question: What length screws should I get? Do the toepieces screw into the shims and then different screws into the ski?
12/2/2014
Hi George, 6.4 is a good thickness but note you want the "Classic" version for the Speed Radicals, versus the "Radical" version which is for the Radical ST/FT. The 19mm screws are perfect for going through the binding, shim holes, and into your ski. You need one screw per binding hole (4 per Speed Rad toe).
Answer this question:
I believe the difference between the Radical and Classic shims is just the pattern and how it fits the outline of the plastic toe spacer found on the Radical ST (and not found on the Speed Radical). Bill B @ B&D suggested I get the "classic" style for the speed radical. In retrospect, it probably wouldn't have been a big deal to get the Radical (ST) style... and then I would have been able to combine my 3.2mm spacers with the Radical baseplates if I wanted to try more shimming.
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11/27/2014
I want to add a riser to my Speed Radical toes.( ~5mm
I'm debating which to order: the Dynafit ST riser or the B&D shims.
What are the pros/cons? Which is lighter?
I believe the Dynafit riser extension off the rear cannot be cut off because it is hollow underneath; is that correct? Is that the case with the B&D shim?
Thanks for your advice!
I'm debating which to order: the Dynafit ST riser or the B&D shims.
What are the pros/cons? Which is lighter?
I believe the Dynafit riser extension off the rear cannot be cut off because it is hollow underneath; is that correct? Is that the case with the B&D shim?
Thanks for your advice!
11/28/2014
Hi Phil, the Radical ST toe plates are virtually the same in weight (29g) and thickness as the 6.4mm B&D shims. Both models have hollow areas underneath, but only the Dynafit version has protrusions fore and aft of the toe piece. There is not a great place to cut off those protrusions due to the structural pattern underneath, so go with the B&Ds if you don't want those.
Answer this question:
Five Stars to B&D for filling a highly valuable niche in Tech binding after-market parts, and to Skimo Co for enhancing the availability.
More specifically though, many Dynafit and Tech-bindings are faulted for their relatively high heel > toe delta. The heel pins have to rest above a large spring to control lateral release, along with an adjustment track, yet the toe has no other reason to be anything but directly on top of the ski’s topskin. (For the detailed measurements, see Skimo Co’s “Binding Pin Heights” article.)
However, this delta is very easy to reduce with a toe shim – if you don’t mind spending hours cutting and drilling LDPE sheets and scrounging around for longer ski-specific screws (which aren’t available anywhere outside ski-related distribution channels).
Fortunately B&D now has an easy alternative. Yes, you can save some money by making them yourself. But if I had to do it all over again, I’d have Skimo Co ship these back in time for me!
More specifically though, many Dynafit and Tech-bindings are faulted for their relatively high heel > toe delta. The heel pins have to rest above a large spring to control lateral release, along with an adjustment track, yet the toe has no other reason to be anything but directly on top of the ski’s topskin. (For the detailed measurements, see Skimo Co’s “Binding Pin Heights” article.)
However, this delta is very easy to reduce with a toe shim – if you don’t mind spending hours cutting and drilling LDPE sheets and scrounging around for longer ski-specific screws (which aren’t available anywhere outside ski-related distribution channels).
Fortunately B&D now has an easy alternative. Yes, you can save some money by making them yourself. But if I had to do it all over again, I’d have Skimo Co ship these back in time for me!
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