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B&D Shims

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Getting the right ramp angle on your bindings can make the difference between skiing on-point or in the backseat with tired quads. B&D makes shims for almost every occasion. Choose a shim based on your binding and desired pin height delta, which can take some experimentation. Shorter boot sole lengths are more affected by delta because they end up with a higher ramp angle, thus look for thicker shims. Shorter skis also may benefit from thicker shims. For long skis and long feet, go thin to win. Some folks who shim their toes also increase the height of their heel risers to compensate. Do this with B&D Nubbins.

►ORDERING NOTE: All shims are sold in PAIRS, while the screws are priced INDIVIDUALLY.

Classic Shims, 3.2mm - Shims that are mounted under tech binding toes in order to reduce your ramp angle. 3.2mm thick, laser cut.

Classic Shims, 4.7mm - 4.7mm thick version of the above shims. All these are drilled to match both Classic and Radical hole patterns.

Classic Shims, 6.4mm - Same thickness as the Radical ST/FT base plates, but used for the Speed Radical and most other tech toes.

Classic Extensions, 3.2mm - Also known as “tips & tails”, these allow the Classic shims to be used with Comfort, Vertical ST, and Vertical FT bindings. They interlock with the 3.2mm Classics.

Classic Extensions, 4.7mm - The Vertical & Comfort series toes have built in base plates that would otherwise overhang the shims. These slide into the Classic shims and work well with 23.5mm screws.

Classic Extensions, 6.4mm - Supports the base plates of older Dynafit bindings while raising the whole thing up 6.4 millimeters. The toe extensions need to be screwed onto your skis with the included wood screws (6.4mm version only).

Radical 1.0 Shims, 3.2mm - Raise up the toe pieces on your Dynafit Radical ST and FT bindings by 3.2 millimeters, reducing your ramp angle.

Radical 1.0 Shims, 4.7mm - Decrease the pin height delta by 4.7mm for those Radical ST/FT 1.0 bindings from Dynafit.

Radical 1.0 Shims, 6.4mm - Effectively double the baseplate thickness under your toes, reducing the pin height delta to less than 10 mils for the Radical ST/FT series.

Rotation Shims, 3.2mm - Although there is less pin height delta on the ST Rotation series, it is still relatively high. This will correct it by 3.2mm.

Rotation Shims, 4.7mm - Decrease your delta by 4.7mm on the Rotations or Radical ST 2.0 bindings. 37g each.

Rotation Shims, 6.4mm - As the thickest shims for the Rotation or Radical ST 2.0 bindings, the 6.4mm shims will neutralize the ramp angle the most.

Radical FT 2.0 Shims, 3.2mm - Radical 2.0 heel pins are about 13.5mm higher than the toe pins. These shims will lower the delta to near 10mm, which some feel is a good target for touring skis.

Radical FT 2.0 Shims, 4.7mm - The happy medium between the 1/8” and 1/4” shims for the Radical FT 2.0 binding.

Radical FT 2.0 Shims, 6.4mm - More toe height means less delta which means less ramp angle and possible tired quadriceps.

G3 ION Shims, 3.2mm - The stock delta of the Ion is 11mm. These shims will bring you down 3.2mm to a very happy ramp angle. When mounting an Ion(10, 12, or LT) with this shim, you'll want to get 21.5mm Pozi screws and grind them to ~19.7mm length.

G3 ION Shims, 4.7mm - Same as the above but reduces delta by 4.7mm.

G3 ION Shims, 6.4mm - Lifting the toes by 6.4mm will leave the Ion feeling pretty close to an alpine binding.

Xenic Shims, 3.2mm - Made for the Xenic binding and will reduce ramp to +11.3mm.

Xenic Shims, 4.7mm - Custom made for the Xenic binding and will reduce ramp to +9.8mm.

Xenic Shims, 6.4mm - The thickest shim and will reduce the ramp to +8.1mm.

Vipec / Tecton Shims, 3.2mm - The thinnest flavor of a toe shim for the Fritschi Vipec bindings. These do *not* have drill holes for screws and will need to be drilled. 18.9mm Pan screw is needed.

Vipec / Tecton Shims, 4.7mm - The middle option for Vipec and Tecton bindings. This version sports a slightly revised geometry compared to the 22/23 version. These come predrilled.

Vipec / Tecton Shims, 4.7mm - 2022/23 - Medium-est rise for Vipec toes. It also works with the Tecton. No drill holes.

Vipec / Tecton Shims, 6.4mm - Stack it up under the Vipec and you'll be close to flat. No drill holes. 22mm Pan screw is needed.

Kingpin Shims, 3.2mm - Although the Kingpin has no heel pins, we’ve estimated the effective delta at +9.5mm. This can be lowered with these shims.

Kingpin Shims, 4.7mm - A thicker shim for the Kingpin will get you close to +5mm.

Kingpin Shims, 6.4mm - Closest to flat you'll get with a single shim under the Kingpin toes.

ATK Raider Shims, 3.2mm - Works with ATK Raider 10/12 and Freeraider 14/16 bindings. Decrease your ramp angle to +8.3mm.

ATK Raider Shims, 4.7mm - Great way to decrease your ramp angle on your ATK Raider 10/12 or Freeraider 14/16 down to +6.8mm.

ATK Raider Shims, 6.4mm - Bring your ramp angle down on your ATK Raider 10/12 or Freeraider 14/16 to a measly +4.8mm.

ATK C-Raider Shims, 3.2mm - Bump down the ramp angle on your C-Raider 10/12 bindings to +7.8mm.

ATK C-Raider Shims, 4.7mm - Lower that ramp angle on your C-Raider 10/12 to +5.3.

ATK C-Raider Shims, 6.4mm - Ultimate ramp angle equalizer for your C-Raider 10/12 leaving you at +3.6mm.

ATK Raider Universal Shims, 3.2mm - Compatible with both C-Raider and non-evo Raider models (utilizing aluminum toe piece), decrease ramp to +7.8mm or +8.3mm respectively.

ATK Raider Universal Shims, 4.7mm - Works with both C-Raider and non-evo Raider bindings from ATK, reduces ramp to +5.3mm or +6.8 respectively.

ATK Raider Universal Shims, 6.4mm - The thickest shim that is compatible with both C-Raider and non-evo Raider models, drops ramp to +3.6mm or +4.8mm respectively.

Backland / MTN Shims, 3.2mm - Perfect for your Atomic Backland or Salomon MTN bindings to level things out just a touch, leaving you at +5.3.

Backland / MTN Shims, 4.7mm - Hit the sweet spot getting to a ramp angle of +3.8 with this shim.

Backland / MTN Shims, 6.4mm - For a near-zero ramp angle this will land you at +2.1.

18mm Pozi Screw - If you add some shims, you're going to need longer screws. These are alpine screws with a large head that works well with Plum bindings.

19mm Torx Screw - These are good for shimming lots of toes with 6.4mm shims. Small Torx head works especially well with Dynafit bindings. Find the screws here.

21.5mm Pozi Screw - Another alpine-style, large-head screw that works best with G3 ION and Plum models.

23.5mm Pozi Screw - Perfect for 4.7mm shims under Radical 1.0 & Vertical toes that already have baseplates. Medium size head.

28mm Pozi Screw - These are for raising the Radical ST or Vertical ST toes past 4.7mm, amongst other uses. Watch your depth, you may need to grind 'em down.

Metric conversions: 3.2mm = 1/8". 4.7mm = 3/16". 6.4mm = 1/4"

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Questions & Reviews

11/6/2015
Question from ChuckM
 
Does the B&D toe shim work on the Radical FT? if so what do you do with the carbon stringer that runs between toe and heel pieces?
11/6/2015
Answer from jbo
 
Hi ChuckM, the Radical shims will fit under the FT toe & baseplate, but not with the connector plate in place. You toss that in the bin.
Answer this question:

10/22/2015
Question from Jasper
 
HI,
i wonder if the 28mm screws are long enough for combining the 6,4 mm and the 4,7 mm Radical Shims to reduce the ramp angle on my Radical FTs as close to 0 as possible.
10/22/2015
Answer from jbo
 
Hi Jasper, you'd probably be OK with a 6.4 and a 3.2, but not enough bite with over 11mm of stack. Also, crampons might not work for you at those heights!
Answer this question:

2/5/2015
Question from Chris L
 
I know you have probably answered this in a previous post but I just wanted to clarify. I want to raise the toe pieces on my speed radicals and was a little confused from a previous answer, so my question was can you tell me which item I need and also do you have the proper screws available to compensate for the added thickness. Thank You.
2/5/2015
Answer from jbo
 
Hi Chris, you want the Classic shims (thickness is a preference, 6.4 is most popular) and screws to match your chosen thickness (19mm works without modification for the 6.4s).
Answer this question:

1/24/2015
Question from travis
 
I'm trying to shim up a pair of dynafit tlt speed classics. I'd like to get as close to flat ramp angle as possible. Which shim and screw combo do you recommend?
1/25/2015
Answer from jbo
 
Hi Travis, flat would be 6.4mm + 3.2mm Classic shims, mounted with 28mm screws. I haven't tried that particular combo, but it would avoid the need to shorten the screws for the 6.4 shim by itself (25mm ski screws are hard to come by).
Answer this question:

12/23/2014
Adam Holmes (used product a few times)
 
After reading articles about ramp angle/toe-heel delta, I got some 6.4mm shims to raise the toepiece on a Dynafit Vertical ST binding. Took the binding from a +16mm to about +9.6mm for ramp delta. I'm pretty convinced this has made my downhill skiing much less tiring. Less tired = more vertical! Who would have thought this small change could affect my fun factor. Definitely worth the time, money, and slight weight penalty.
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12/7/2014
Question from Mike
 
I ordered the B&D 4.7 classic shims for a pair of verticals but forgot the extensions. If I order the extensions and choose Qty:1, will that be a pair or 4 pieces total? Just want to make sure...
Thanks
12/7/2014
Answer from jbo
 
Hey Mike, all the B&D shims are sold in pairs, so Qty:1 = 1 pair = 2 pieces.
Answer this question:

12/2/2014
Question from george
 
So I was going to buy the 6.4 mm for my speed radical dynafit toepieces. This will work correct?
Second question: What length screws should I get? Do the toepieces screw into the shims and then different screws into the ski?
12/2/2014
Answer from jbo
 
Hi George, 6.4 is a good thickness but note you want the "Classic" version for the Speed Radicals, versus the "Radical" version which is for the Radical ST/FT. The 19mm screws are perfect for going through the binding, shim holes, and into your ski. You need one screw per binding hole (4 per Speed Rad toe).
Answer this question:

12/1/2014
Christopher W (used product a few times)
 
I believe the difference between the Radical and Classic shims is just the pattern and how it fits the outline of the plastic toe spacer found on the Radical ST (and not found on the Speed Radical). Bill B @ B&D suggested I get the "classic" style for the speed radical. In retrospect, it probably wouldn't have been a big deal to get the Radical (ST) style... and then I would have been able to combine my 3.2mm spacers with the Radical baseplates if I wanted to try more shimming.
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11/27/2014
Question from Phil
 
I want to add a riser to my Speed Radical toes.( ~5mm
I'm debating which to order: the Dynafit ST riser or the B&D shims.
What are the pros/cons? Which is lighter?
I believe the Dynafit riser extension off the rear cannot be cut off because it is hollow underneath; is that correct? Is that the case with the B&D shim?

Thanks for your advice!

11/28/2014
Answer from jbo
 
Hi Phil, the Radical ST toe plates are virtually the same in weight (29g) and thickness as the 6.4mm B&D shims. Both models have hollow areas underneath, but only the Dynafit version has protrusions fore and aft of the toe piece. There is not a great place to cut off those protrusions due to the structural pattern underneath, so go with the B&Ds if you don't want those.
Answer this question:

9/4/2014
Jonathan S (hasn't used product)
 
Five Stars to B&D for filling a highly valuable niche in Tech binding after-market parts, and to Skimo Co for enhancing the availability.

More specifically though, many Dynafit and Tech-bindings are faulted for their relatively high heel > toe delta. The heel pins have to rest above a large spring to control lateral release, along with an adjustment track, yet the toe has no other reason to be anything but directly on top of the ski’s topskin. (For the detailed measurements, see Skimo Co’s “Binding Pin Heights” article.)

However, this delta is very easy to reduce with a toe shim – if you don’t mind spending hours cutting and drilling LDPE sheets and scrounging around for longer ski-specific screws (which aren’t available anywhere outside ski-related distribution channels).

Fortunately B&D now has an easy alternative. Yes, you can save some money by making them yourself. But if I had to do it all over again, I’d have Skimo Co ship these back in time for me!
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