B&D Shims
Getting the right ramp angle on your bindings can make the difference between skiing on-point or in the backseat with tired quads. B&D makes shims for almost every occasion. Choose a shim based on your binding and desired pin height delta, which can take some experimentation. Shorter boot sole lengths are more affected by delta because they end up with a higher ramp angle, thus look for thicker shims. Shorter skis also may benefit from thicker shims. For long skis and long feet, go thin to win. Some folks who shim their toes also increase the height of their heel risers to compensate. Do this with B&D Nubbins.
►ORDERING NOTE: All shims are sold in PAIRS, while the screws are priced INDIVIDUALLY.
Classic Shims x2 - Drilled to match both Classic and Radical hole patterns.
Classic Extensions x2 - Also known as “tips & tails,” these allow the Classic shims to be used with Comfort, Vertical ST, and Vertical FT bindings. They interlock with the Classic shims.
Radical 1.0 Shims x2 - Pair well with Dynafit Radical ST and FT bindings.
Rotation Shims x2 - Compatible with both Rotation and Radical ST 2.0 bindings.
Radical FT 2.0 Shims x2 - Yep, these work with Radical FT 2.0 bindings.
G3 ION Shims x2 - Compatible with G3 ION bindings. RIP.
Xenic Shims x2 - Made for the Fritschi Xenic bindings. Your quads will say thank you.
Vipec / Tecton Shims x2 - Compatible with Vipec and Tecton bindings. Please note some shims will come undrilled.
Kingpin Shims x2 - Works for Marker Kingpin, Alpinist, and Cruise bindings.
ATK Raider Shims x2 - Works with ATK Raider 10/12 and Freeraider 14/16 bindings. Not compatible with C-Raider or newer Raider Evo models.
ATK C-Raider Shims x2 - Purpose made for C-Raider bindings and their longer striker plate.
ATK Raider Universal Shims x2 - Shims that pair with older Raider models. Please note these are not compatible with Raider Evo or C-Raider models.
ATK Modern x2 - Shims that pair with Raider Evo, RT Evo (>24/25), Haute Route Plus (>24/25), Crest (>24/25), and Raider SL models.
Backland / MTN Shims x2 - Perfect for your Atomic Backland, Salomon MTN bindings, or Armada Tracer Tour bindings.
18mm Pozi Screw - If you add some shims, you're going to need longer screws. These are alpine screws with a large head that works well with Plum bindings.
19mm Torx Screw - These are good for shimming lots of toes with 6.4mm shims. Small Torx head works especially well with Dynafit bindings. Find the screws here.
21.5mm Pozi Screw - Another alpine-style, large-head screw that works best with G3 ION and Plum models.
23.5mm Pozi Screw - Perfect for 4.7mm shims under Radical 1.0 & Vertical toes that already have baseplates. Medium size head.
28mm Pozi Screw - These are for raising the Radical ST or Vertical ST toes past 4.7mm, amongst other uses. Watch your depth, you may need to grind 'em down.
Metric conversions: 3.2mm = 1/8". 4.7mm = 3/16". 6.4mm = 1/4"
Related Products
Questions & Reviews
To install, can I simply remove the old screws, slip in the shims, and put the new screws in to the old holes with a dab of wood glue? My skis are dynastar m-tour 108s, they have a poplar and polyurethane hybrid core. I notice the edge of the bindings near the screws has this glue residue the bled out around the edges that almost resembles hot glue (see pic), so not sure what that is or if it will create issues.
You'll want a 19mm panhead screw - 19mm measuring just the threads, not the head. We don't have anything that will work, I'd recommend seeing if your local hardware store has anything.
We do have a 17mm Kreuzspitze pan head that would work if you want to go with the 4.7mm shim. "Pan Head 17mm Mounting Screw" here.
Yep, you can install them exactly as you said. Wood glue is the way to go, anything watertight and flexible will work. That glue around the binding is likely just some glue that seeped out when they were originally mounted. Only thing to watch out for is if the screws were epoxied in, you'll rip out a bunch of material when you remove them.
I have a pair of raider EVO's I am looking to use the 6.4mm shim to bring the ramp angle down as much as I can. Which version of the shim should I purchase and which screws will I need?
Also will you please list the shims weight? trying to determine if i should get the B&D or ATK shim. Thank you!
The Raider Universal shims we have on this listing are not compatible with the Evo Raider models. You would want the Raider Evo toe shim sold here, which is made by ATK for those bindings specifically. It would also be lighter than the B&D options, a lot of the extra material is machined away. It is a bit thinner at 4mm. They also come with the necessary screws.
Thanks!
Are you referring to the Speed Turn 2.0, or the Radical ST 2.0? Feel free to post a photo if you're not sure! Lots of Dynafit bindings with ST 2.0 in the name.
Thanks for educating me?
So both of those bindings have noticeable ramp. The delta on the Dynafit Radical is +16mm vs the Ion which is +11mm.
Generally speaking, people end up backseat when ramp angle is too high for them because they are being tilted forward by the binding. This causes them to compensate by leaning back, in order to bring their body back into balance. At a certain point, you end up having to lean/sit back too far and it puts you in the back seat. For others, a delta that is too flat may make it hard to get forward enough. It is a very individual topic that has more to do with your own biomechanics than anything else.
It could be that you are one of the rarer individuals who need a very high ramp angle. It could also be that you are simply not used to the flatter ramp of the Ion yet and you will adjust as you ski it more. Is the boot new as well? The Quattro has a pretty aggressive forward lean.
None of these are predrilled for the Slatnar toe piece, but you could get the Vipec/Tecton shim that doesn't have holes and drill holes for the Slatnar. Might want to grind it down to fit the profile of the toe a bit as well.
Both the Classic and Radical ST/FT 1.0 will work - the Classic has holes for both classic and radical hole patterns, while the Radical ST/FT 1.0 is a bit more machined to fit the Radical series.
The shim is the Kingpin shim, you could go 6.4 or 4.7 depending on how much you want to shim them. For the 6.4, you'll want the 21.5mm pozi screw, and file/grind it down to 21mm. For the 4.7mm, the 19mm Torx screw will work.
I m used to ride a BD helio 200 w/o toe shim I like the ramp angle.
I just mounted a C-raider 12. Thinking to add the 4.7mm or should I go to 6.4mm? What are your thougt? Too flat with 6.4 or just fine with 4.7?
Also will need the screws for the shim. I've look your website and did not find the 21mm panhead screws!!!
Thankx!
Hugh
The Helio 200 has a delta of 6.5mm. The ATK C-Raider comes (no shim) with a delta of 10mm. So the 4.7mm shim would put you just about in the same spot. Whether the 6.4mm shim is too flat or not is up to you, but it will put you a little flatter than you are on the Helio.
Screws for the C-Raider are really tricky. They use a unique hole design that does not have room for the heads of most mounting screws. When you decide which shim you want, email us at help@skimo.co and we can advise on what screws you need and what modifications will be necessary. The heads (and maybe the shafts) will need to be ground down to fit.
Just depends on what kind of delta you like! If you're not sure, the 4.7mm shim (middle size) will bring you to around a 5mm delta, which is plenty flat for most people. Of course, the 6.4mm option will get you the flattest. If you feel like the delta is way too high/if you have boots that you feel have too much forward lean, then the 6.4 might be appropriate.
Brakeless + spacers might be the coolest way to set up a Raider :)
What shim and screws would I need to shim the toe of Dynafit Speed Turn bindings? Thanks in advance!
The B&D Classic shims on this listing will work for the Speed Turn. Thicker shims will neutralize the delta more than thinner shims. So if you want them as flat as possible, order the 6.4mm thickness. For the 6.4mm shims, you will want the 19mm torx screws listed here. .
What shim/screw combo would you recommend for Dynafit Speed Radicals? I can't seem to figure out which style would work best from the info listed. Also, I'm in a 27.5 boot, and I know it depends quite a bit on the skier and preference, but which thickness would you suggest?
I am thinking of purchasing "ATK Raider Universal Shims, 6.4mm" for my ATK Raider 11 Evo.
If so, which type of screws will fit: Pozi Screw, Torx Screw, or Pan Head Screw?
Also, what length is suitable?
Thanks for sharing your screw recommendations!
And please tell me one more thing about Shims.
Compared to ATK's original Shims, those of B&D do not seem to be lightning. I believe that makes the weight difference between ATK and B&D Shims quite significant.
So, I am thinking of lightening the B&D shims. Of course I am willing to accept the risk of strength loss due to this.
Can you tell me if there are other risks besides the reduction in strength, such as performance impact on the run?
Want to use the 4.7mm height.
There's some conflicting information in the comments/questions below. SkiMo seems to offer this exact shim now?
And what size screws will I need to purchase?
Unrelatedly - want to remove the brakes and use the replacement cover. Do you sell these too?
Really unrelatedly - Have some Atomic Backland Pures and thinking a stomp pad might be useful and a toe shim. Do you have these items as well??
Thanks much
We do have the exact shim. You'll want 21mm panhead screws.
For the brake cover, it's under ATK Binding Parts, called the "brake seat cover".
We do have toe shims for the Backland Pure, called "Backland/MTN shims" above. We don't have stomp pads.
I am just wondering if there are shims og plates available to even out the delta on Salomon shifts og Marker duke pt’s?
I dont understand why they would give a high delta on an alpine like binding?
At the moment we don't have any way to shim a Shift or Duke PT.
Tried to read and answer my own question, but couldn’t find it. I want to shim the front of my Salomon MTNs. I wear Atomic Ultra Hawx te 120 boots. Thinking the 6.4 because I tend to wear a zero drop shoe, and I’d like to get my heels down. I very often feel like I’m in the back seat while skiing! Which screws do I need? Also, I’m open to being advised toward a smaller shim…
Shimming the toepiece is actually going to put you further in the back seat (because you'll have to compensate more to keep your weight forward). Instead, I would recommend increasing the forward lean on your boot to help pitch your weight forward and out of the back seat.
In any case, if you get the 6.4 shims I'd recommend ordering the 19mm Torx screws on our Dynafit Screws page for the best fit.
Find it here
Earn store credit by writing reviews. Learn more.