B&D Shims
Getting the right ramp angle on your bindings can make the difference between skiing on-point or in the backseat with tired quads. B&D makes shims for almost every occasion. Choose a shim based on your binding and desired pin height delta, which can take some experimentation. Shorter boot sole lengths are more affected by delta because they end up with a higher ramp angle, thus look for thicker shims. Shorter skis also may benefit from thicker shims. For long skis and long feet, go thin to win. Some folks who shim their toes also increase the height of their heel risers to compensate. Do this with B&D Nubbins.
►ORDERING NOTE: All shims are sold in PAIRS, while the screws are priced INDIVIDUALLY.
Classic Shims x2 - Drilled to match both Classic and Radical hole patterns.
Classic Extensions x2 - Also known as “tips & tails,” these allow the Classic shims to be used with Comfort, Vertical ST, and Vertical FT bindings. They interlock with the Classic shims.
Radical 1.0 Shims x2 - Pair well with Dynafit Radical ST and FT bindings.
Rotation Shims x2 - Compatible with both Rotation and Radical ST 2.0 bindings.
Radical FT 2.0 Shims x2 - Yep, these work with Radical FT 2.0 bindings.
G3 ION Shims x2 - Compatible with G3 ION bindings. RIP.
Xenic Shims x2 - Made for the Fritschi Xenic bindings. Your quads will say thank you.
Vipec / Tecton Shims x2 - Compatible with Vipec and Tecton bindings. Please note some shims will come undrilled.
Kingpin Shims x2 - Works for Marker Kingpin, Alpinist, and Cruise bindings.
ATK Raider Shims x2 - Works with ATK Raider 10/12 and Freeraider 14/16 bindings. Not compatible with C-Raider or newer Raider Evo models.
ATK C-Raider Shims x2 - Purpose made for C-Raider bindings and their longer striker plate.
ATK Raider Universal Shims x2 - Shims that pair with older Raider models. Please note these are not compatible with Raider Evo or C-Raider models.
ATK Modern Shims x2 - Shims that pair with Raider Evo, RT Evo (>24/25), Haute Route Plus (>24/25), Crest (>24/25), and Raider SL models.
Backland / MTN Shims x2 - Perfect for your Atomic Backland, Salomon MTN bindings, or Armada Tracer Tour bindings.
18mm Pozi Screw - If you add some shims, you're going to need longer screws. These are alpine screws with a large head that works well with Plum bindings.
19mm Torx Screw - These are good for shimming lots of toes with 6.4mm shims. Small Torx head works especially well with Dynafit bindings. Find the screws here.
21.5mm Pozi Screw - Another alpine-style, large-head screw that works best with G3 ION and Plum models.
23.5mm Pozi Screw - Perfect for 4.7mm shims under Radical 1.0 & Vertical toes that already have baseplates. Medium size head.
28mm Pozi Screw - These are for raising the Radical ST or Vertical ST toes past 4.7mm, amongst other uses. Watch your depth, you may need to grind 'em down.
Metric conversions: 3.2mm = 1/8". 4.7mm = 3/16". 6.4mm = 1/4"
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Questions & Reviews
For the 3.2mm shim, you'd want the 19mm Torx screw!
Original screws are 16mm (and had 7mm penetration into the ski)
Shim 6.4mm
Total: 22.4mm
Suggestion on screw length for the 6.4mm shims + rotation toes?
Would either the 'stock' ones you offer below cut it?
a. 21.5mm
b. 23.5mm
Ski is a Salomon Czar (measured at 12.8-13.1mm thick in toe mount area using a digi caliper). Binding is actually a Radical ST 2.0. This will be the first time this binding will be going on the ski.
Thanks as always!
Drew
And what screws?
Thank you in advance.
Paul
Shimming heels is not a common practice. Most folks try to go the other way, bringing the toe and heel delta closer to zero. Because of this, we do not have shims for the Alpinist heels. I do see what you are up to, however! My advice would be to go for a DIY route. You would need to source some hard plastic at your desired thickness and trim to shape while also drilling for mounting holes. The length of shim screws would be simply the original screw length + shim thickness. Feel free to email us at help@skimo.co for further help/brainstorming. Thanks!
Thanks
GP
You probably can, in the same way that you could craft a shim out of a block of plastic - you would need to cut it to match the Alpinist heel piece and drill holes for it. If you were going to do this, I'd buy the Tecton/Vipec shims instead, as they're quite large and give you a lot of material to work with. But to be clear, this would be a full DIY endeavor. You would essentially just be buying the shims for material.
The "ST" was dropped from the name, but the Radical binding is synonymous with the Radical ST (although not the ST 2.0, which was a Rotation). Dynafit's naming scheme is an interesting historical study. You will want the Dynafit Radical 1.0 shims! If you get the 4.7mm shim (middle thickness), the 23.5mm Pozi will work great. If you go for the thicker 6.4mm, you will need the 28mm Pozi screws and you will need to grind them for the correct amount of ski penetration so they don't push through into the bases of your skis.
You'll want a 19mm panhead screw. We don't have any, but if you went with a 4.7mm shim, we have some 20.5mm screws. They're not in our inventory, shoot us an email at help@skimo.co. You could also grind those down to length if you're set on 3.2mm.
I'm hoping to reduce some of the ramp angle on my salomon mtn pures by using the 4.7mm backland/mtn shims.
I run quiver killers - what would be the length of screw required to add in the shims?
My best guess is M5 x 20mm pozi countersunk screws like these: https://accu-components.com/us/pozi-countersunk-screws/9705-SPK-M5-20-A4
Thanks!
Fritschi Tecton uses pan head screws for the toe. With a 4.7mm shim you will need a 20.5 pan head screw. We should have some of those under our Ski Screws listing.
To install, can I simply remove the old screws, slip in the shims, and put the new screws in to the old holes with a dab of wood glue? My skis are dynastar m-tour 108s, they have a poplar and polyurethane hybrid core. I notice the edge of the bindings near the screws has this glue residue the bled out around the edges that almost resembles hot glue (see pic), so not sure what that is or if it will create issues.
You'll want a 19mm panhead screw - 19mm measuring just the threads, not the head. We don't have anything that will work, I'd recommend seeing if your local hardware store has anything.
We do have a 17mm Kreuzspitze pan head that would work if you want to go with the 4.7mm shim. "Pan Head 17mm Mounting Screw" here.
Yep, you can install them exactly as you said. Wood glue is the way to go, anything watertight and flexible will work. That glue around the binding is likely just some glue that seeped out when they were originally mounted. Only thing to watch out for is if the screws were epoxied in, you'll rip out a bunch of material when you remove them.
I have a pair of raider EVO's I am looking to use the 6.4mm shim to bring the ramp angle down as much as I can. Which version of the shim should I purchase and which screws will I need?
Also will you please list the shims weight? trying to determine if i should get the B&D or ATK shim. Thank you!
The Raider Universal shims we have on this listing are not compatible with the Evo Raider models. You would want the Raider Evo toe shim sold here, which is made by ATK for those bindings specifically. It would also be lighter than the B&D options, a lot of the extra material is machined away. It is a bit thinner at 4mm. They also come with the necessary screws.
Thanks!
Are you referring to the Speed Turn 2.0, or the Radical ST 2.0? Feel free to post a photo if you're not sure! Lots of Dynafit bindings with ST 2.0 in the name.
Thanks for educating me?
So both of those bindings have noticeable ramp. The delta on the Dynafit Radical is +16mm vs the Ion which is +11mm.
Generally speaking, people end up backseat when ramp angle is too high for them because they are being tilted forward by the binding. This causes them to compensate by leaning back, in order to bring their body back into balance. At a certain point, you end up having to lean/sit back too far and it puts you in the back seat. For others, a delta that is too flat may make it hard to get forward enough. It is a very individual topic that has more to do with your own biomechanics than anything else.
It could be that you are one of the rarer individuals who need a very high ramp angle. It could also be that you are simply not used to the flatter ramp of the Ion yet and you will adjust as you ski it more. Is the boot new as well? The Quattro has a pretty aggressive forward lean.
None of these are predrilled for the Slatnar toe piece, but you could get the Vipec/Tecton shim that doesn't have holes and drill holes for the Slatnar. Might want to grind it down to fit the profile of the toe a bit as well.
Both the Classic and Radical ST/FT 1.0 will work - the Classic has holes for both classic and radical hole patterns, while the Radical ST/FT 1.0 is a bit more machined to fit the Radical series.
The shim is the Kingpin shim, you could go 6.4 or 4.7 depending on how much you want to shim them. For the 6.4, you'll want the 21.5mm pozi screw, and file/grind it down to 21mm. For the 4.7mm, the 19mm Torx screw will work.
I m used to ride a BD helio 200 w/o toe shim I like the ramp angle.
I just mounted a C-raider 12. Thinking to add the 4.7mm or should I go to 6.4mm? What are your thougt? Too flat with 6.4 or just fine with 4.7?
Also will need the screws for the shim. I've look your website and did not find the 21mm panhead screws!!!
Thankx!
Hugh
The Helio 200 has a delta of 6.5mm. The ATK C-Raider comes (no shim) with a delta of 10mm. So the 4.7mm shim would put you just about in the same spot. Whether the 6.4mm shim is too flat or not is up to you, but it will put you a little flatter than you are on the Helio.
Screws for the C-Raider are really tricky. They use a unique hole design that does not have room for the heads of most mounting screws. When you decide which shim you want, email us at help@skimo.co and we can advise on what screws you need and what modifications will be necessary. The heads (and maybe the shafts) will need to be ground down to fit.
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