B&D Ski Leashes
The backcountry ski touring leash from B&D is designed to alleviate the need to detach and attach your skis while putting on your climbing skins. The 1980s phone-style elastic cord stretches enough so you can lift your skis to put on your skins. This means you won’t lose your ski during transitions. It also allows for more slack in the line when your bindings release in a fall. Last but certainly not least, the leashes come with a breakaway feature to help prevent your skis from pulling you under in an avalanche. With enough force, a link in the chain brakes so you can swim to safety (hopefully, *gulp*).
- Coiled cord dissipates energy in a fall, reducing peak force on the leash.
- Two fuse links included that will break at either 40lb or 60lb of force.
- Also comes with Vinyl tubing to protect the cord in wear areas.
- Cords extend to 6 feet, which may keep your sharp edges away.
- Snap-hook is easy to operate with gloves for quick operation.
- Cord can be wrapped around your boot to stay out of the way.
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Questions & Reviews
First off - why leashes: brakes often don't work in the backcountry (they don't stop skis in light pow or when the slope is steep enough).
I've had these leashes on my salomon mtn explores and 4frnt hojis for 8 years combined.
These leashes are long enough to pop out for a scramble over a ridge or to keep clipped during a transition and the fuse link snapped as designed when the ski caught on a tree, but I kept falling, reducing risk of injury on my leg.
They're not the lightest, but you can keep them off when skinning. The only part to fail over time was the rubber security band, but they included spares.
I would use the piece of cord and the vinyl tubing that comes with the leashes to make a loop through the hole on each toe lever! You can connect the leash from there using the breakaway links.
The Ion has a slot in the toe piece to attach a leash. The ring included with these might fit fine, but 2mm cord would work best. The G3, marker, Dynafit, Plum, and any that have a flexible attachment ring will all work well.
There are slots on either side of the toe lever that could be threaded with thin cable or cord, or you could attach them to the riser if they'll only be used for alpine.
Easy to attach, can apply/remove skins with ski attached easily.
Gives a lot of confidence when ski on/off on steeper slopes.
Only downside is be careful not to catch on footrests on chairlifts - wrap to the inside of your leg assists with that.
Recommending some friends to get them now
It is strong, durable and long. My boots (travers cs) do not have a connection point so I ended up putting a keyring on the tongue pull tab on the boot liners. This adds a little bit more distance compared to a normal connection point and eliminates the concern that the leash will be too long as stated in lance j's review. No need to wrap them around the cuff, which I haven't tried myself, but looks and sounds annoying and frustrating.
Overall a solid upgrade and definitely one of the highest improvements per dollar I've spent on ski gear!
Great question! The entire leash, including the hardware, is just about 10''. Just the coil is right around 7".
The pros of the B&D leashes are that they have a break link that will separate you and your skis in the event of an avalanche, and that they have plenty of length to keep you out of harm's way if you yard on the descent. The long and short of these leashes (not sure whether the pun was intended or not) is that they work, and they are a nice upgrade from the Dynafit leashes in my opinion.
The only down side of the leashes is that they are long, so if you prefer to clip to the front of your boot, you'll end up with a lot of extra leash flopping around, and if you leash around your cuff, I keep getting them stuck in my walk/ski lever. Neither situation is awful, and if I just stopped and thought for a second as I was attaching the leashes when I'm in walk mode at the bottom of the mountain, then the second issue would be solved.
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