ATK leashes are made with a Kevlar core to be ultralight yet strong. They extend up to 60cm (two feet) but have a spiral polyurethane sheath that otherwise prevents them from slopping around and getting caught on branches. A simple clipping system lets you hook and unhook your skis at will. The leashes weigh 17 grams (0.6 ounces) each and will break with an elongation force of around 70kg (154 lbs). Sold in pairs.
Questions & Reviews
*** attach them relatively permanently to one pair of skis and pretty much always engage them (vs leave on binding without clipping to boot in mellow terrain) - they're well designed and you'll probably like them.
*** swap them across your ski quiver, attach/detach depending on the day's objective, or engage/disengage to boot while on the move depending on the terrain - they're probably the absolute worst option available. The "puck" binding attachment system is extremely finicky, the oversized biner/boot clip is clearly designed to prevent girth hitching the system to the binding, and that same oversized biner and extra long coil/cord means if you leave it on the binding without boot engagement its going to be a whole lot of bojangle going on during any movement (tour or ski).
Since I also have brakes on my entire quiver and only intended to use them sparingly in "don't lose a ski here" type terrain (re: steep/firm, glacial, etc...), these leashes are absolutely THE worst option available and I'm returning them immediately.
Sorry, we don't sell these separately. If the girth hitched cable is too bulky, you could find some thin cord to use as a leash loop, just keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't fray. That said, it's probably easier to just remove the cable when you're not using it.
will these leaches fit on the 22/23 Marker Alpinist 12 bindings? I know Marker has leashes also, but these do not come with a fuse and that scares me. What would be the best advice with the Marker 12's?
The only recommended leash for the Alpinists is the Marker specific leash due to the very small attachment point. It is important to note that attaching the leash after the Alpinist toe has been mounted is very difficult and is best done during the mount. If you're worried about not having a breakaway component, the Maruelli Leash Safe Loops is the part for you! They are not in stock at the moment, but we have ordered more and are on the way. They then can be found here. A zip tie can work in a pinch. Thanks!
I am a tremendous fan of the aramid core (as opposed to steel cable). I have had problems with metal fatigue on others from continuously stepping on the tech toe nose, and simultaneously bending the leashes. No problems with these a few years of heavy use and they're still going strong.
Can I attach them on Dynafit TNT?
The other leash from Dynafit that you have doesn't come with the wire if I have understood correclty..
Which one do you reccomand me?
Dynafit leashes are too short in my book, B&D are very long and have to loop around you cuff if you don't want them to wag around as you ski. The ATK leashes are very light, with just the right amount of length and stretch.
Not sure what you'd need to do to make a better leash. Seems like these are pretty well dialed in my book.
I’ve previously made my own leashes out of 3mm accessory cord, but dialing in the length exactly can be tricky when swapping between different boots and bindings (i.e., with different attachment points). With this leash though, any excess length stays out of the way instead of flopping around, and the coils of course extend when you need a little more length for clipping.
I did though modify it as shown in the attached picture to be more like my custom leashes. For the attachment point to the binding, I didn’t bother with the provided key-style split rings, and instead just girth-hitched it to the hole on a Plum race toe lever (or on a Dynafit race toe to the open part of the frame on the side). For the attachment point to the boot, the provided mini fakabiners are probably preferable if you have bulky handwear. But since I almost always use thin gloves, I substituted in a plastic “hangman snap hook” (with the original swivel part dremmelled off) attached with cable/zip ties.
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