Mounting Tools
Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to put holes in skis, glue in the holes, and screws in the glue. This sounds easier than it is, and we highly recommend that touring bindings be mounted professionally... ideally by us! Reach out to help@skimo.co if you'd like peace of mind from the best in the business-- if you buy your kit here, your mount fee is discounted, or free! If, however, you choose to undertake this ambitious endeavor in your dimly lit garage or basement with a beverage in hand, be sure to double-check the specs on your topsheet and consult the manufacturer when in doubt. Make sure your drill bit isn't deeper than your ski, and that your screws aren't longer than your bit!
3.5 x 7.5mm Drill Bit - An excellent choice for many junior skis, just remember to check screw depths!
3.5 x 9.0mm Drill Bit - A slightly downsized diameter provides more retention in soft skis without substantial mounting zone reinforcement, including all Voile Hyper skis.
3.5 x 9.5mm Drill Bit - A deeper option for soft skis without mounting reinforcement, the 9.5mm depth buffers against dimpling bases.
3.6 x 9.0mm Drill Bit - The standard recommended bit for skis without metal mounting reinforcement; also great for folks who love numbers divisible by 0.9.
3.6 x 9.5mm Drill Bit - A deeper option for the aforementioned, prefered by those too lazy to clean debris from drilled holes before mounting.
3.8 x 9.0mm Drill Bit - An unusual but highly versatile size requested by the geniuses at Ski Trab and Kastle touring. Also great for skis with particularly thin metal mounting plates.
4.1 x 7.5mm Drill Bit - A bit for metal-reinforced junior skis, but it works great on any thin (or exceptionally short) ski, coupled with shorter mounting screws.
4.1 x 9.0mm Drill Bit - Perhaps the most ubiquitously used bit, this and its 9.5mm counterpart are the standard for skis with metal mounting reinforcement.
4.1 x 9.5mm Drill Bit - A deeper option for the aforementioned, prefered by those too lazy to clean debris from drilled holes before mounting.
T-Handle Tap - It's recommended to tap the holes for binding screws if they are going through a metal reinforcement plate, or if you are using softer Titanium screws as with some race bindings.
Torx-20 Tool - An elongated T20 driver bit is useful for reaching and turning binding screws that are often tucked in close to binding housings. Made by Dynafit.
Rotation Adjustment Tool - Dynafit's tool for adjusting Rotation (or Radical 2) bindings.
Quiver Killers - Please see here!
Hardman Epoxy - This is a slow-set epoxy with very high shear strength. Flexible, tough, and vibration resistant, this is for bomber mounts and setting inserts. Cures grey despite being named 'orange,' and comes with a mixing stick. Don't rush yourself with a 4-hour working time and 18-hour full cure. One pack is about enough for a mount.
Plastic Hole Plug - Shaped plastic intended to fill 4.1mm drill holes. Be sure to seal plugs in with ski mounting glue, or epoxy if you're feeling burly. Typically mixed colors.
*** Drill bits are from Wintersteiger and Sun Valley Ski Tools, based on availabilty.
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Questions & Reviews
first of all thanks for your work here. i have several questions (i know there are a lot of comments in the internet on this, but i am more interested in your professional opinion).
baseline: i have a völkl rise high 88 (mostly carbon ski) with old drill holes from a fritschi xenic. so far i broke this binding twice and i like to install a new one (Plum R170) on myself.
1: on the ski is written to use a drill in dimensions 3.6x9.5, but i have already a wintersteiger in 3.5x9.0. does this matter if i clean the holes properly before insert the 13mm length screws?
2: what would you say is the minimal distance between the old and the new holes? i read about the 10mm "rule/idea", but then i would loose the ideal mounting point in the ski. is there a proper way to use for example 7mm distance between the centre of both holes?
3: Which method do you prefer for closing old drill holes. plastic plugs and epoxy or just epoxy or and crazy mix because of the short distance of the holes?
have a good week
Great questions. First, I will say that mounting skis is nearly equal parts art and science; rules and guidelines are great, but experience trumps all. Note also that there are many essential technical nuances to mounting skis beyond drilling them properly, and we highly recommend that touring bindings be mounted professionally... ideally by us! Feel free to reach out to help@skimo.co if you'd like a hand with this tricky mount. To address your questions:
1. We recommend always following the manufacturer's printed recommendation for drill bit sizing; however, we think you would likely be fine drilling that ski with a 3.5 x 9.0 bit. There may be slightly more topsheet volcanoeing with the undersized bit, but it shouldn't be an issue. Assuming you use the stock Plum R170 screws, screw penetration should be fine drilling to a 9mm depth, given that (as you said) you thoroughly clean all debris from the drilled holes before mounting.
2. From a professional perspective, we try to adhere to the "10mm center-to-center" rule, but particularly for skis with substantial mounting reinforcements, one might get away with as little as 8mm center-to-center. I would not recommend going any closer than that, especially for a ski without a metal mounting plate. Given that you are "drilling small," you might be able to get away with as little as 8-9mm between holes, but for the record, we would not recommend it! If you choose to send it low-clearance, consider using epoxy in both the old and new holes, although this has its drawbacks as well.
3. For standard mounts, we like plastic hole plugs with ski mounting glue (non-expanding wood glue, primarily for waterproofing), or in cases like yours, plastic hole plugs with epoxy would work great.
Feel free to reach out to help@skimo.co with any further technical questions, or, for peace of mind, let us handle this tricky mount for you! Thanks, and good luck!
Hi, i have this ski unmounted and looking for some help to get drill bit size for remounting. No drill bit size or any are printed on the skis and cannot find helpful info.
Got some info from evo.com and says,
“ Power Platform – Edge-to-edge Titanal insert for maximum under foot power and increased hard snow edging.”
Would i need 4.1mm or 3.5mm drill bit?
Thinking of installing dynafit st or salomon mtn bindings.
Thanks in advance.
If it's not written on the ski, the manufacturer is the best resource for drilling instructions. However, you can always use a 3.5 x 9.0 or a 3.6 x 9.0 for drilling mounts. If metal starts coming out during the drilling process, not just wood and fiberglass, switch to a 4.1 x 9.0 to open the ski up more.
Thank you for your advice. Drilled with 3.5mm and metal was coming out, so i drilled again with 4.1mm x 9.0 and worked.
The 12AB tap is the size of all the ski screws used in tech bindings. You therefore could use the tap for non metal topsheet holes. The downside is you can also more easily overtorque and strip the screws. The best way to keep top sheets from volcanoing is to make sure the top sheet is counter sunk enough to keep it from pulling up.
The Wintersteiger tap is easiest to use with the T-handle removed and chucked up in a cordless drill. Use a lot of axial pressure and a slow speed to get started the easiest.
If you don't have the tap and only need to do a few holes, you can make a "Farmer tap" with an old screw, hacksaw and file; it works just about as well.
The ski will typically say which bit to use somewhere on the topsheet or sidewall. I don't have a Maverick on hand to check, but if the bit isn't specified, use a 3.5x9. Then, if metal shavings come out of the holes, drill with a 4.1x9.
on my Scott Superguide 88 R skis is written 3.8/9 G2 and I wonder for what G2 stands?
I want to mount Dynafit Speedturn 2 bindings on this skis.
For the Scott Superguide 88 you'll use a standard step 3.8 x 9 bit.
I have atomic backland skis and backland bindings ready to mount. Bought QK sets with tools from here but decided not to use them on this pair.
Skis noted to use 4.1 x 9 drill bit and it looks like the skis have carbon in it so i have 4.1mm drill bit.
When i measures the screws that came with the bindings, only 7.5mm will go in the skis, so would i still drill 9mm or just 7.5mm will do?
Also shall i use epoxy i have 24hr cure) or wood glue? I prefer epoxy and don’t want to worry about remounting but want to ask before i make a mistake.
Cheers
Doesn't hurt to have an extra mm when drilling, I would drill the full 9mm. It won't adversely affect the ski.
We typically use wood glue, and only use epoxy when reusing old holes or when we're really worried about the bindings pulling out. That said, you could use epoxy no problem if you don't plan on remounting them much.
Don't quote me on this, as alpine gear isn't my specialty, but some of the Head Kores are softer, without a titanium mount plate. Those are typically made for rental/demo fleets.
Always go with what the topsheet says!
Thanks!
The recommended drill bit is typically inscribed on the ski. In the rare case that it isn't, it depends on what the mounting plate is made of. If it's made of fiberglass, carbon, or anything but metal, you'll want to use a 3.5mm wide bit. If it's made of metal, you'll want to use a 4.1mm bit. You could reach out to Salomon about the material of the mounting plate, or drill with the 3.5mm, then, if metal shavings come out, widen it with a 4.1mm.
What size drill bit do i need to order for Atomic Backland 85 UL? Do i also need to buy the tapping tool?
Your skis should list the required drill bit right on the topsheet. If not, I would use a 3.8 or 4.1 if the mounting plate contains metal, and a 3.6 if it does not.
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