Dynafit Speedskin Precut Skins
Why bother trimming skins when you can get Pomoca-quality Speedskins precut for Dynafit skis? The climbing skins include a patented clamp system that works effortlessly on non-race model skis. Designed to be ripped off from the tip of the ski, the Speedskins include an easy-to-grab rubber stick that fits perfectly in Dynafit tip notches. The simple tail clips clasp securely on the flat tail notches found on all Dynafit skis. The precut Dynafit Speedskins are the easiest way to get climbing and, more importantly, skiing.
- Waterproof membrane separates the fur from the glue, preventing moisture from compromising the stickiness.
- Speed Glide finish is applied to the 70% mohair plush to reduce friction and the consequent leg burn.
- Snow Leopard Grip comes from a combination of special materials that climb well and are abrasion-resistant.
- Anti-stick compound is applied to the bottoms to help prevent hateful glomming.
- Cut to match the Blacklight, Free, Speed, Carbonio, Speedfit, SL 80, etc skis.
Update 2019/20: Dynafit added pre-cut skin options for the Carbonio 76 and Speed 76 skis. Also, some of the models now have colored rubber tips.
Update 2020/21: New models match the Blacklight series including the 74, 80, and 88. See the Pin Skins for the Blacklight Pro.
Update 2021/22: Additional precuts for the Blacklight 95 and Free 97 / 107 skis (now called Radical).
Update 2024/25: Dynafit made specialized Tigard skins with thinner backing for the new freeride line.
Questions & Reviews
I need to replace the skins for my original Dynafit Baltoro woman's ski - length 158cm. Would these dynafit speed skins fit my skis?
Thanks
Work beautifully if used on the exact ski and length they are cut for, there's close to no adjust-ability so you truly need the exact length and model ski unless you're willing to cut the tail clips off. No buildup of snow under the nose, and no skin failure from the tail, because they have a metal loop acting as the tail clip.
Can rip skins from the nose which is always more pleasant than from the tail.
Unfortunately we don't have any Dynafit skins that would work for that ski. You could consider the Climb Pro S-Glide as an alternative. I'd get the 140mm x 165-180 cm, and then cut them to fit your ski.
We will have full stock of material in a few weeks and making a skin for Dynafit skis is actually really simple if you have a hammer and a nail. Send me an email or give us a call if you have any further questions!
How do you attach the tip to another skin? It looks like it's sewn on.
Thanks again for you help this past winter with some replacement kit parts. The backcountry Sierra Nevada red fox research was incredible and we got two new fox detections in the park.
So...I'm still skiing on my old Dynafit Stokes 167 cms. What are my options for tracking down speed skins? Gotta any laying around?
Thanks!
Only downside I have found is the glue. When new, it works great but on my older skins with a lot of use, I have had to do some serious touch-ups with BD gold label. I have discovered that this is a result of Black Diamond glue (and perhaps other manufacturers) have some toxic components in their glue that are illegal in Europe and thus absent from Dynafit (and other European) skins.
Overall, great skins that I highly recommend. Just realize you will have to give the glue some TLC after quite a bit of use (but I think that is true for any skin).
I also have a pair of BD Nylon Ascension skins i rotate into use for my Manaslus ... depending on conditions, goals, etc.
Pamoca is the manufacturer for these skins and traditionally have heard they are seen as the "sports car" of skins. I agree with this for the most part. Light weight, high performance ... but maybe a bit temperamental.
In my opinion, the glue does not stick as well as my Ascension skins nor resist ice / snow issues as well after a few laps or when conditions get wet. With that being said I have never had a problem i couldn't fix with a small amount of effort ... so not the biggest deal.
I like the rubber front attachment (easy to rip skins w/o taking skis off ... less contortion than rear clip option) and also really love not having to CUT THE SKINS MYSELF (<3).
Depending on conditions and performance goals i would recommend.
Another maintenance tip--wax your skins (not just the Euro's; all of them). I rarely feel the need within the first 30-days of use, but thereafter, I warm wax all my skins about every 15-days or when I expect demanding conditions. Don't apply as much iron as on the ski...just rub the cold bar against the hair enough to evenly distribute visible wax, and iron with the hair just enough to lay the hair back into place. Corking the wax with the hair will prevent applying too much iron heat, which can degrade your nylon and glue. I use the same wax as I use on my skis, sometimes slightly softer.
Background on product familiarity: I have over 300,000 vertical feet on a pair of Manaslu skins. I liked those so much that I bought two pairs of the more recent generations on closeout that were originally intended for the discontinued version of the Se7en Summits ski. One of those pairs has been trimmed down and used for spring and summer mountaineering on my Hagan X-Race skis (for which I use straight mohair for racing and training during the winter). Previously, for (too?) many years I had been wedded to a certain line of purple and then orange skins, but my Manaslu skins in 2008 helped wean me away from that habit to a current assortment of various momix skins for all my touring setups.
First, the first impressions out of the box: If you’re accustomed to a certain orange (previously purple) skin, then the backing on these will feel amazingly subtle, the plush pleasingly smooth, and the glue somewhat suspect. By contrast, if you’re accustomed to other European skins with a mix of mohair and nylon, then all those qualities will be familiar.
To adapt the skins to other skis, if your skis don’t have a tip notch, you can be brave and create one: Skimo Life.
Next, to dial in the length, the easiest option is to ditch the relatively basic tail clip, which is potentially helpful, but almost always unnecessary. Alternatively, remove the plastic “tip plate” receptacle, then cut the skin to the appropriate length (with length sizing the trickiest part of all this), and finally just sew the rubber tip in directly using a Speedy Stitcher Sewing Awl (for the equivalent of the tip setup on the Dynafit Race Ready skin). You’ll lose the advantage of field replacement for the rubber tip, but this is an advantage only if you carry an extra tip on your tours, which doesn’t seem worth the bother anyway given their apparent longevity.
Finally, for trimming the skin, no trim tool is included, since these are set up with the exact dimensions for specific Dynafit models, but the cheap little BD “letter opener” tool easily produces a clean and precise edge.
Second impressions, in use: The rubber tip is brilliant simplicity, a stark contract to so many other complicated tip hardware systems on the market. The length is not adjustable on the latest versions, but with the amount of stretch inherent in the rubber tip, I’ve never felt the need to adjust the length (and hence never bothered to do with my older version that does have a small length adjustment).
The glide is excellent. The glue has held up for repeated laps in very cold temperatures, but I was very careful to rewarm them inside my jacket on each descent (although not always so careful to keep snow off the glue).
All of this adds up to very easy removals and refixing.
I’ve heard complaints that momix skins don’t grip quite as well as nylon skins. Perhaps true, but I’ve never noticed any differences, even for steeper-than optimal skintracks. (And if you’re constantly trying to take as steep a skintrack as possible, while using the highest heel elevator setting on touring bindings, then learn how to set – and love – a lower-angle and ultimately more efficient skintrack!)
Third impressions, for long-term durability: Although my Manaslu pair has mainly been used in good winter conditions (i.e., continuous snow), they have nevertheless encountered more than their fair share of adversity during the course of over 300,000 earned vertical. However, they’re still pretty much good as new. The rubber tip shows no signs of cracks (and neither do any of the many other tips I’ve retrofitted onto various mohair race skins with lots of use). The glue has required only some small annual touch-ups in the tail. And the plush is still fine.
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