Wear out a fork? Lose a screw? Decide to add the oddly expensive crampon attachment? Whatever you're into, we will try to help. Find our growing list of parts for Plum bindings below:
Crampon Attachments - New (x2) - Machined receptors for Oazo and Race 150/170 toe pieces, including the required screws. This attachment system is only compatible with Plum ski crampons, and will not accept Dynafit-style ski crampons. Multiple colors available.
Crampon Attachments - Old (x2) - The metal crampon receptor brackets that slip under race 135/145/165/185 toe pieces and screw in. Comes with the necessary screws. This older version of the Plum crampon attachment system will accept Dynafit-style ski crampons, and not modern Plum ski crampons.
Universal Crampon Mount (x2) – Love your Plum ski crampons so much you want them on every ski regardless of whether it actually has a Plum binding or not? We don’t blame you. Thanks to the Universal Crampon Mount, it’s easy to make that a reality. The mounts include two wood screws and a spacer to enhance crampon teeth bite, and this whole kit can be mounted anywhere on the ski. Weighs 10g per side. Also included are crampon risers for use with telemark bindings.
Heel Risers (x2) - Plastic risers that mount onto the forks of Race 145/150/165/170/185 bindings. Mount by punching the pins and removing fork; rotate heels 180 degrees to use. 13g each and gives approximately 25mm of extra height.
Steel Forks (x2) - Replacement forks for Race 145, 150, 170, and 185 bindings, as well as the Oazo 8. Lots of options but not hard to replace.
Titanium Forks (x2) - Shed a few grams from a Plum Race 145-185 or replace notched forks on a Race 135.
Titanium Forks 99 (x2) - Replacement forks for the Race 99 binding.
Lock/Unlock Kit (x2) - The humped metal striker plates under the toe levers that enable ski & locked modes. Comes with thin springs to control the lever tension.
Old Race Toe Lever (x1) - A replacement toe lever for model year up to 2015. Also works to upgrade pre-2011 toes using the lock / unlock kit to be ISMF compatible.
New Race Toe Lever (x1) - Replacement toe lever for Race toe pieces belonging to the 2016 vintage and later.
Race Toe Lever Springs (x2) - Replacement springs for the toe levers if yours were damaged or scattered to the wind.
Race Toe Lever Pin - The pins that hold the toe lever in place, about which they pivot.
2mm Base Offsets (x2) - Move your Race 145 or 150 heel piece back or forward 2mm by re-mounting with this base pedestal.
3mm Base Offsets (x2) - Re-mount your fixed race heel 3mm fore or aft if you change boots by swapping pedestals.
4mm Base Offsets (x2) - 4mm is a little too close for another drill hole so use this offset pedestal instead.
Oazo Toe Lever - 2020/21 (x1) - Replacement toe ski/tour lock lever. Comes with springs and spring pin.
Oazo Toe Lever - Update for 2021/22 the hole in the lever is smaller to increase durability. Comes with springs and spring pin.
Oazo High Heel Riser (x1) - Replacement high heel riser for all Oazo bindings.
Guide Heel Pads (x2) - Removable rubber pads on metal plates that screw onto the heel pieces for extra boot support.
Guide Heel Pins (x4) - Replacement heel pins for the Guide binding; Plum recommends replacing all 4 at the same time.
Guide Heel Roof (x1) - The metal top with climbing post that comes stock on most Guide heel pieces.
Guide S Heel Roof (x1) - The flat metal plates that cover Guide S heels, without a high riser position.
Guide Roof Screw (x1) - The mini Torx T9 screws that hold the roofs onto the heel pieces.
Yak Toe Plates (x2) - The baseplates that come with Yak toes and widen the mounting pattern. Also works with Guide binding.
Yak Heel Plates (x2) - Base plates included with Yak heels which offer the wide hole pattern.
Race Mounting Screw (x1) - Specialized screws from Plum that are the perfect size for their race bindings.
Race Adjustment Screw (x1) - Torx T25 fasteners that stop the Race 165, 170 & 185 heels from sliding back or forward.
Race Crampon Attachment Screw (x1) - The tiny Torx screws that hold the crampon receptors onto the Race toes.
Guide Mounting Screw (x1) - The countersunk Pozidriv wood screws used to mount Plum Guide bindings.
Guide Adjustment Screw (x1) - Replacement Torx T25 screws used for the Guide and Yak heel fore/aft adjustment systems.
Vertical Release Screw (x1) - Screw used to adjust the vertical release on the Guide, Yak, and WEPA bindings.
Torx T25 Tool - The fore/aft adjustment tool that ships with Guide and Race 165/170/185 bindings.
Grease Spray - Some nice binding grease for moving parts like toe springs. Comes in a 15ml (1.5oz) spray bottle.
Yeah, I ordered some already. My Guides are 8 years old, and have been moved around between skis, so they've had some use. The only thing that I can determine is wrong are the pins.
The newer guides have a burlier toe pin. These have just worn out, and now I have two toe pieces that are each missing a pin. It's too bad I can't replace the pin and keep these as spares for long overnight trips.
This review is for the 3 mm offset bases, but think would apply to the other offsets as well. 5+ stars for having something like this available! So nice to use these bases rather than an adjustment plate when my new boots were 3 mm shorter than the old ones. I like the clean and low weight of the direct mount.
They were a little tricky to install. After consulting friends and Skimo, this is what I ended up doing:
*Mount binding (with old base) on a piece of scrap wood *Set up a jack screw system on both sides of the tower at the pins and the back of the U spring *Alternate turning each screw each revolution or so to slowly lift off the tower *Watch out for the internals falling out when it finally disengages *Swap the spring system to the new base *Push the tower down hard on the new base (I don't remember if I used pliers to squeeze the spring for initial engagement)
A word of caution: I'd recommend against buying a particular offset based on MFR stated BSL. In my case the new boots have a BSL that is 4 mm shorter than the old ones, but the actual offset I needed was 3 mm based on measurement with the new boot installed.
Sorry, I don’t know about the 120s. If you can take them apart to measure, here are the dimensions of the 150 base for comparison: Post diameter: 16 mm Post height above base top surface: 21.9 mm Spring hole diameter: 6 mm Spring center from post top: 9.6 mm Retainer pin groove width: ~3 mm Groove center from top of post: ~3.6 mm
Are there two generations of Guide heel baseplates for brakes? I swapped out my crappy old Guide brakes for the new "red button" brakes and had to file and dremel screw heads. Now the fore/aft adjustment is much less! Seems a new generation baseplate (if it exists) would have a wider centre channel to accommodate the wider screw head. The original Guide baseplate for brakes centre channel is 6 mm. Can you measure the current generation please and advise?
I just measured the adjustment channels on the current plate and they come in at 5.5mm wide. If you have any other questions you can always reach us at help@skimo.co. Hope this helps!
Hi Eric, consider it confirmed! Although it's getting harder to call them new, the mounts are for the current Plum system.
Answer this question:
3/19/2019
Question from
Greg
Hi,
I bought some Hagen skis with Plum 170 bindings from you guys last year. I realized the bindings do not have the crampon piece. Do I just need to order that accessory and then screw it on to the binding?
Hi Martin, assuming you're talking about the forks for the Race 150/170, the Titanium forks above test lower in forward release (though not in lateral). Other brands/models are not interchangeable.
I would like to get the Plum Guide heel base plates for brakes and I was wondering if you guys have an estimate for when they will be back in stock. Also I was wondering if the base plates that hold the brakes have the same 32/36x53 hole pattern as the Guides I have. My skis are Quiver Killed so I don't want to do any re-drilling!
Sorry, none on order. Yes, they do have same hole pattern.
Answer this question:
3/7/2018
Question from
Joseph
What is the specification for the proper replacement screw for the metal ski tip for Volkl RTM 84? Would the Race Mounting screw or Guide Mounting screw fit?
Can you provide a picture of what the heel risers look like installed? I'm trying to understand how they integrate with the existing riser. Also, is the install of the risers easy? Are there instructions?
Hi Todd, the installation does not come with instructions, but is pretty straightforward and easy. It involves punching out the pin that retains the U spring, sliding the spring back, dropping in the riser, and then re-installing the retaining pin. I’ve included a picture of mine to help you get an idea of what they look like.
Answer this question:
11/12/2017
Question from
andrew
Just tried to move the crampon attachment clips (old style) from a pair of plum 145 toes to plum 170 toes. I got the clip to fit in place but the screws are too wide in diameter to screw into the toe piece holes. can you sell me just the screws for the "new" bulky looking crampon attachments so that i can make this work? not looking to buy the "new" crampon attachment, just want screws to make the old clips work.
Will traditional style ski crampons (Dynafit, B&D, ATK, etc.) work with the new style plum race crampon attachment, or will only the plum crampons work?
Hi Mark, yes the titanium forks work with all the race bindings. They are a bit lighter in weight and forward RV.
Answer this question:
12/22/2016
Question from
Patrick Tomco
Hi, I'm looking to decrease the ramp angle on my Plum Guides. Am wondering if I purchase the yak toe plates, will the guide toe pieces fit? Also, I run binding freedom inserts on my skis, and am wondering if I purchase longer screws if I can use the same mounting pattern of the guides without having to re-drill for the wider template.
Hi Adam, yes the heel pins do come with the triangle blocks.
Answer this question:
12/11/2016
Question from
Adam
Developed some play in my Plum Yak heel pins. Both vertically and lateral play, and can rotate the pins as well. Compared to a new binding this is not the case. Binding has some use on the them. Is this due to wear and tear? If so, will replacing the pins fix this problem? Or would other maintenance to the binding help? While skiing I don't really feel the play in the pins at all. Thanks for the advice.
