Wear out a fork? Lose a screw? Decide to add the oddly expensive crampon attachment? Whatever you're into, we will try to help. Find our growing list of parts for Plum bindings below:
Crampon Attachments - Old (x2) - The metal crampon receptor brackets that slip under race 135/145/165/185 toe pieces and screw in. Comes with the necessary screws.
Crampon Attachments - New (x2) - New machined receptors for race 150/170 toe pieces w/ required screws. Plum crampons can be added from the top, instead of slid in from the side like others.
Crampon Ski Mount x2 – Love your Plum ski crampons so much you want them on every ski regardless of whether it actually has a Plum binding or not? We don’t blame you. Thanks to the Universal Ski Mount, it’s easy to make that a reality. The mounts include two wood screws and can be installed anywhere on the ski. Works great with telemark binding and weighs 10g per side.
Heel Risers (x2) - Plastic risers that mount onto the forks of 145/150/165/170/185 race bindings. Mount by punching the pins and removing fork; rotate heels 180 degrees to use. 13g each and gives approximately 25mm of extra height.
Steel Forks (x2) - Replacement forks for Race 145-185 bindings or turn a 135 into a 145. Lots of options but not hard to replace.
Titanium Forks (x2) - Shed a few grams from a Plum Race 145-185 or replace notched forks on a Race 135.
Titanium Forks 99 (x2) - Replacement forks for the Race 99 binding.
Lock/Unlock Kit (x2) - The humped metal striker plates under the toe levers that enable ski & locked modes. Comes with thin springs to control the lever tension.
Old Race Toe Lever (x1) - A replacement toe lever for model year up to 2015. Also works to upgrade pre-2011 toes using the lock / unlock kit to be ISMF compatible.
New Race Toe Lever (x1) - Replacement toe lever for Race toe pieces belonging to the 2016 vintage and later.
Race Toe Lever Springs (x2) - Replacement springs for the toe levers if yours were damaged or scattered to the wind.
Race Toe Lever Pin - The pins that hold the toe lever in place, about which they pivot.
2mm Base Offsets (x2) - Move your heel piece back or forward 2mm by re-mounting with this base pedestal.
3mm Base Offsets (x2) - Re-mount your fixed race heel 3mm fore or aft if you change boots by swapping pedestals.
4mm Base Offsets (x2) - 4mm is a little too close for another drill hole so use this offset pedestal instead.
Guide Heel Pads (x2) - Removable rubber pads on metal plates that screw onto to the heel pieces for extra boot support.
Guide Heel Pins (x4) - Replacement heel pins for the Guide binding; Plum recommends replacing all 4 at the same time.
Guide Heel Roof (x1) - The metal top with climbing post that comes stock on most Guide heel pieces.
Guide S Heel Roof (x1) - The flat metal plates that cover Guide S heels, without a high riser position.
Guide Roof Screw (x1) - The mini Torx T9 screws that hold the roofs onto the heel pieces.
Yak Toe Plates (x2) - The baseplates that come with Yak toes and widen the mounting pattern. Also works with Guide binding.
Yak Heel Plates (x2) - Base plates included with Yak heels which offer the wide hole pattern.
Race Mounting Screw (x1) - Specialized screws from Plum that are the perfect size for their race bindings.
Race Adjustment Screw (x1) - Torx T25 fasteners that stop the Race 165, 170 & 185 from sliding back or forward.
Guide Mounting Screw (x1) - The countersunk Pozidriv wood screws used to mount Plum Guide bindings.
Guide Adjustment Screw (x1) - Replacement Torx T25 screws used for the Guide and Yak heel fore/aft adjustment systems.
Vertical Release Screw (x1) - Screw used to adjust the vertical release on the Guide, Yak, and WEPA bindings.
Torx T25 Tool - The fore/aft adjustment tool that ships with Guide and Race 165/170/185 bindings.
Grease Spray - Some nice binding grease for moving parts like toe springs. Comes in a 15ml (1.5oz) spray bottle.
I would like to get the Plum Guide heel base plates for brakes and I was wondering if you guys have an estimate for when they will be back in stock. Also I was wondering if the base plates that hold the brakes have the same 32/36x53 hole pattern as the Guides I have. My skis are Quiver Killed so I don't want to do any re-drilling!
Sorry, none on order. Yes, they do have same hole pattern.
Can you provide a picture of what the heel risers look like installed? I'm trying to understand how they integrate with the existing riser. Also, is the install of the risers easy? Are there instructions?
Hi Todd, the installation does not come with instructions, but is pretty straightforward and easy. It involves punching out the pin that retains the U spring, sliding the spring back, dropping in the riser, and then re-installing the retaining pin. I’ve included a picture of mine to help you get an idea of what they look like.
Just tried to move the crampon attachment clips (old style) from a pair of plum 145 toes to plum 170 toes. I got the clip to fit in place but the screws are too wide in diameter to screw into the toe piece holes. can you sell me just the screws for the "new" bulky looking crampon attachments so that i can make this work? not looking to buy the "new" crampon attachment, just want screws to make the old clips work.
Hi, I'm looking to decrease the ramp angle on my Plum Guides. Am wondering if I purchase the yak toe plates, will the guide toe pieces fit? Also, I run binding freedom inserts on my skis, and am wondering if I purchase longer screws if I can use the same mounting pattern of the guides without having to re-drill for the wider template.
Developed some play in my Plum Yak heel pins. Both vertically and lateral play, and can rotate the pins as well. Compared to a new binding this is not the case. Binding has some use on the them. Is this due to wear and tear? If so, will replacing the pins fix this problem? Or would other maintenance to the binding help? While skiing I don't really feel the play in the pins at all. Thanks for the advice.
Are both crampon attachments work with all Plum toes? Or is the "new" style required for newer bindings? If they are cross compatible, what are the reasons for choosing one over the other? The new one looks unnecessarily bulky to me compared with the minimal stainless steel one.
Hi Joey, the new style is required for the 150/170. Old style for the 135/145/165/185 only. New one allows you to pop the crampon in from the top instead of sliding in from the side.
Hi Richard, the lock/unlock kit will make the binding much more likely to release in a twisting fall. Without it, you are essentially always in locked touring mode, making it unlikely your skill will release when needed. With it, you have the option to be in ski mode. There are no instructions, but the kit just replace existing parts so you can use one of your bindings as a model for the installation.
Could you please confirm that the heel risers are compatible with the new Race 170 model? (I don't see why it wouldn't be, but the description only says it's compatible with 145/165/185.)