The Plum 170 binding is the 150 with a built-in 20mm adjustment plate. If you plan on using more than one boot with your setup, this is the version for you. The re-designed toe pieces feature smooth-operating lock levers that have clear stops for skiing and skinning. The heel piece has a simple pin-cover flap for uphill skinning and a can be turned sideways for flat-on-ski skating (shuffling?). All pins are steel with the heels being very resistant to notching. The Plum Race series has become of a standard-setter for reliable racing and adventuring.
Built-in adjustment plates let you shift +/-10mm, almost enough for 3 boot sizes.
Toe pieces have a lever that is comfortable to grab and smooth to lock/unlock.
Shortened heel-pedestal partially compensates for the adjustment plate thickness, keeping you closer to flat.
Heels can rotate sideways for flat mode, with the plates preventing a negative ramp angle when skinning.
Notch-resistant steel U-springs and a simple heel flap are robust and replaceable.
Optional heel risers can help with steep climbs, or removed for a big race.
Included machined crampon attachments (+9g) work extra-great with Plum crampons.
Meets ISMF specs for racing and many people’s specs for mountaineering.
100% made in France.
Update 2017/18: Plum redesigned the toe lever to avoid unlocking problems with some boots.
Update 2018/19: All new toe piece, with material moved around to strengthen critical areas and streamline the rest. Plum is now including the crampon receptors with the binding. All our inventory is current.
I have a set of 170 bindings and have used them for 4 seasons. I have noticed the steel U fork is starting to seem a bit loose. When carrying the skis in my hand the fork rattles in the binding. I have seen some recommendations to replace the Ti fork but not the steel. It doesn't rattle a ton and it just seems like the steel fork has worn into the Al housing a bit which should be expected. Have you seen any issues with this or thoughts?
Hey Seth, sorry to hear the ol' reliable Race 170s are starting to lose their edge! We haven't heard of issues with the U-spring either, but maybe it's a tolerance issue with the U-spring or with the fixing pin holding it in place. Reach out to us by phone or at email@example.com to get a repair started!
I have had this binding mounted on PDG's for racing then on to Trab Maestro's for long bike and ski missions, and this season they will be on the Dynastar mythic. Will last forever. Will give them to my two year old son in a few years and he will pass them on, and so on and so forth.
Simplistic to a recent question: I’ve got the high lift pieces installed on my plum 170s. I can’t figure out how I’m going to spin this thing with a pole. I can barely spin it by hand. With a skipole there is nowhere obvious to get any purchase with the tip. Any thoughts?
Hey David! Definitely don't try to spin it with a pole if you value the tips of your poles at all. They'll break in a little bit after some ski time, but no matter what, the best option by far is to spin it with your hand. The first time I tried to spin it with my hands after mounting them, I got so frustrated and had to take the skis off and even once I got there it pretty tough. Plum wants the bindings to last as long as possible and because there's no tension adjustment, they erred on the side of longevity which is why they're so dang stiff. Let me know if you have any other questions.
I (you) mounted up some Race 170s on some Fischer Hannibals last week and have successfully skied powder every day since. So that's great. I'm curious to know whether it ought to feel "easy" or "natural" to rotate the heel peices from flat mode to riser mode. I am finding the rotation to be very tight, such that I can't always do the move with my skis on.
Hey Chris! Nice, that's a sweet setup! They have a break-in period but are relatively stiff in general. I got impatient and sat in my living room with a wood clamp on the heel piece and spun it in circles for 20 minutes to break some heel pieces in at one point. Otherwise, give them a few weeks and they'll start to ease into their groove.
Now that's some French engineering! Obviously the riser setting is fine for most Central Wasatch applications but I was in the Tetons over the weekend where the approaches are flat.
I'm considering these for a daily, lighter, set up. Boots are Atomic Backland Carbons. And I'm almost set on using the 170 as the binding. The release value is conveniently similar to what my alpine binding DIN is supposed to be. But I'm curious about how light the ski has to be before I need to worry about pre release and other binding issues. Would these work on a 6lb/pair ski like the hyper vector or dps tour 1 cassiar? I ski about a 177-180 length ski.
Clancy, This binding would be a great daily driver. Pre release is a function of the binding and its elastic travel. It does not have to do with the weight of the ski or the setup. All tech bindings have less elasticity built in than an alpine binding. With that said dropping weight off the binding is an easy way to drop weight from your entire setup. These bindings would be a great match for either of those skis.
Hey Aidan! It *should* just be the new one, but send a picture to our email address at the bottom of the website or reply to the notification you'll get from this with a picture of the toe piece. Just want to make sure we get you the right one. It'll definitely be one or the other though, not both.
Why are these recommended only for "racing/mountaineering" and not "touring"? Other than the lack of two lift levels, they seem appropriate for touring use to me. Is there a durability concern? Are the toe pins steel?
Hi Leo, lots of folks are touring using race bindings these days. But please remember they typically do not have adjustable release values; they may or may not be appropriate for you in terms of release/retention (visit our binding finder for help). This is a drawback for many skiers for general purpose usage. Durability is not more of a concern with these versus other bindings; in fact it's less in many cases.
Is it correct that these have the same mounting pattern as Dynafit? I'm in the UK and its pretty hard to source Plum bindings and impossible to find a ski tech with a Plum jig but plenty have Dynafit. Not keen to drill my own.
Also, is it possible to tell pre 17/18 toe pieces from the previous ones that had the issues?
Hi Mark, the Plum Guide binding could possibly leverage a Dynafit jig but unfortunately not the race bindings. The hole pattern does not match any Dynafit. It is possible to tell the difference in the lever, yes.
Does the little mounting plate on the race 170 produce a higher heel-toe delta than on the 150? Are shims available for plum toe peices, if I want the mount to be more or less flat? I'd like to get some 150s but I'm not sure I'm going to make it through the season on my current boots...
Hey Chris, thanks for reaching out. The 170 heel is a mere 1.5mm taller than the 150. Shims are available, though even with the thinnest 3.2mm shim, you'll end up with a -0.7mm delta. The B&D Classic 3.2mm is the one that's compatible if you are looking to shim, but because it's so thin, you'll have to get some alpine screws and grind them down accordingly.
Hi, looking at these, the trab titan release adjustable or speed superlite 2.0 for a pair of 171 trab gara aero. Do you know the approximate release on the plums? I like the different heel release options for trab and superlite and need adjustability. Are there significant durability differences between the 3? Plum wins the weight contest but I'm wondering what you guys think would be most appropriate for long distance touring, that particular ski, infrequent racing, and occasional mountaineering. I prefer to ski with a release of around 8. Thanks!
Hi Anthony, you shouldn't have durability problems with any of these. The Trab R8 would be closest do your desired value, with the Plum a little higher laterally. The flat-on-ski mode works best with Trab or Plum which might be helpful for long distance touring.
After looking on Plum's website, it indicates these binding are not recommended for people over 90kg (198 lbs). Why is that? And what if I'm right at 200lbs without my gear or backpack on? What will my experience be like?