CAMP XLC 390 Crampons

I have used the XLC 390 crampons for years with Dynafit TLT6 boots and found I needed to bend the toe bail to conform better to the shape of the boot toe. I switched to Scarpa Alien RS boots and I'm finding quite a poor fit with these crampons that I don't think bending the toe bail is going to solve. Can you recommend a lightweight aluminum crampon that fits the Scarpa Alien RS boot shape better? Thanks!

I've had three different pairs of this crampon or similar Camp aluminum (or as they say in the UK, Aluminium) crampons. They're light for the "not sure" I will need this days, have enough bite for the "glad I brought these" days, and just enough oomph for the steps that almost turn your trip into a "really should have brought steel" days. Like pairing wine with cheese, I would pair this with a Petzl Ride ice ax or a Black Diamond carbon whippet pole and you'll be ready for most mid-winter things that don't require a rope (steep booters, rimed entrance/exit slots, stout rain crusts, finding your ski that fell over the cliff into the narrow gullies, etc.).

Used these a few times. They work well, and we even got onto some small bits of real ice on them and they were fine. I like the light weight and small size when packed.

Cons:
1) Fit with these boots (Atomic Backland) is poor, toe section moves significantly and I can pry them off if I twist and wrench enough. The toe bail is wider than the boot welt, and I am considering swapping the bail with a BD one for better fit. However, they haven't popped off yet.

2) The length adjustment is with a screwdriver. However, I noticed at the end of one day that this screw had backed out over the day. I worry these aluminum threads could strip if the screws don't stay in place.

Hi, quick question... What crampon would you recommend for ski mountaineering that would fit womens foot size 8, Dynafit8? just bought poles from you... great thank you and I think one of your colleagues is joining on this trip to Greenland:)

Hi,

Will these work on the TLT7 without the TLT7 adapter?

Thanks!

I am excited to review these crampons because I would happily call them the greatest crampons I have ever owned and I think every light and fast backcountry kook should have a pair. I have owned these for 5+ years and put many miles on them every spring and winter. Even though they are made of bright weird green aluminum, they look hardly used and I have 100% confidence in their performance.

Locking action: I love putting these on because the automatic action is positive and locks tighly when you flip up the heel. One note, you'll need to make sure these are adjusted for your boot before headed out because changing the length requires a screwdriver. It's doable in the field but not preferred.

Durability: I have used these crampons to climb and ski most of the volcanoes in the PNW, usually in springtime. At first I was careful with rocks and suck but quickly lost patience. I have walked over all manner of texture and have had zero issues. I've taken these across many rocks, dirt, scree fields, scattered ice crap and then do it all. No damage or bent spikes after many years.

Weight: These are so light it's awesome! I basically have no hesitance when throwing these in my pack because they are so damn light. I also worry a bit less about them puncturing or damaging other items in my pack.

Performance on ice: These are just okay. I have used these went following up an icy (but not vertical) chute and then perform but aren't as confidence inspiring as steel spikes would be.

Overall these rock as an all-round ski mountaineering and backcountry frolicking do it all crampon that lasts despite their lightweight build.

4 stars instead of 5.

I love the packability, lack of weight, fit on AT boots.

I got the Anti-ball plates and they fit good.

The heel strap buckle is questionable. I must have stepped on one of them or, it got smacked while in my pack. Anyway, it got broken and I had to rig up another strap. I replaced both straps with the Grivel double ring type strap so, no buckles to break now. I also replaced the aluminum screw/nut with steel on the adjustment bar just because.

Great lightweight, aluminum crampon! Purchased a pair last spring so have only used about 5 times so can't comment on their long-term durability but can share a few findings:

Fit - the fit on my TLT5 boots is great. very secure with no play.
Weight - very light. you can go slightly lighter (350 or race 290) but I find that having 12 points is worth the small weight penalty.
Performance - on very firm snow has been great. I have NOT used them on any water ice or rock but that is not what they are intended for.
Size - pack down reasonably small. not tiny but certainly not too bulky.
Short-term durability - as mentioned, I've only used them 5 days so far exclusively on hard snow but they still look virtually brand new.

Overall - great, lightweight ski mountaineering crampon where you don't expect to encounter much water ice or rocks. Highly recommended.

Awesome starter turned everywhere crampon. For light stuff where crampons are nice but no waterfalls are involved, these do almost everything a crampon is supposed to do. Pack small-ish, and sharpen easily. I have smaller feet and they work fine with mine and larger 11s or so. Part of my skiing duffel setup that goes to most trailheads. The anti-ball plates are nice, but not essential with ski boots though with mountaineering they are nice.

Overall: Five Stars for the baseline option among CAMP’s four different aluminum crampon models. You can go a bit lighter – see my reviews of the Race 290 and Tour 350. Or you can go with a bit more bite – see my review of the XLC Nanotech. But the XLC 390 is an excellent all-around choice.

Background on product familiarity: I’ve used various CAMP aluminum crampons since the 1990s. Among current models, I used the XLC Nanotech for one season, the XLC 390 for several seasons, and the Race 290 for the last couple seasons. I tried the anti-balling plates (optional additional-cost purchase), but decided I didn’t like the fit complications, albeit minor (ditto for weight penalty), especially since I’ve ever experienced only the most trivial balling (given my typical climbing conditions). I climb only what I will ski, so the steepest has been only in the low 50s, and on what I would consider ice but what ice climbers would probably consider merely firm snow.

First, the first impressions out of the box: If you’re accustomed to steel crampons, or even some competing aluminum crampons, then you’re in for a shock at the weight savings. The points are noticeably duller and less aggressively designed than with a steel crampon, but these obviously aren’t intended for vertical ice climbing or mixed climbing.

Fit is easy to set up and sufficiently secure (although my experience is only up to around 302 bsl). The toe bail could be narrower, and I suppose you could try bending it for a tighter fit. But with the length dialed in correctly, I’ve never had any problems at the toe.

The “macro” length adjustment is via a single flathead screw through the threaded frame and into one of 15 holes in the connecting bar. If your bsl is shorter than around 287mm, then you will probably have to slice off some excess length on the bar. All the crampons I’ve seen lack a nut at the end of the screw. Maybe this is unnecessary, but I added one for additional security (whether merely perceived or otherwise).

The “micro” length adjustment is via a kind of “thumb screw” on the back of the heel clip: okay for bare hands inside, but probably difficult if you ever needed to adjust it in the field with numb and/or gloved fingers. The strap length is very easy to crank tightly upon each use.

Second impressions, in use: The strap length stays appropriately tight in use. I read a criticism that the buckle’s quick release can be difficult to manipulate, but I’ve always used thin gloves with these, so no problems for me personally. Climbing purchase has always been sufficient.

Third impressions, for long-term durability: I’ve read criticisms of aluminum crampon durability. But I’ve never seen a picture of a broken crampon point, whether CAMP or another brand. (I have seen a broken toe bail on another brand, but with a much different design.) The points will definitely dull more quickly from even limited and careful walking on rocks, but a few seconds with a file will restore the original point.